Five Classics Near All Mixed Up in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), Colorado

by Topher Donahue

West Gully (WI4), Black Lake
Three long pitches of usually fat ice. Ice rack with a few rock pieces.

Dreamweaver (M2), Mount Meeker
1,500 feet of classic alpine snow and ice. Light rock rack and maybe a couple of screws.

Alexander's Chimney (M4), Longs Peak
Five pitches of harder than the grade indicates mixed climbing. Full rock rack with five to six screws.

Notch Couloir (M3), Longs Peak
The classic alpine climb in the front range. Over 2,000 feet of mostly moderate snow and ice in the springtime. Combine with Alexander's for a big day. Standard mixed rack and a lot of food.

Jaws (WI4+), Moraine Park
The approach to Jaws is a flat, two-mile walk from the winter trailhead, a mere 15-minute drive from Estes Park, Colorado. When Jaws is in, two pitches of classic water ice with harder variations possible exist. Standard RMNP mixed rack.