Irene’s Arête (III 5.8 or 5.9+) - Disappointment Peak, Wyoming

Fire more classics in the Tetons near Irene’s Arête

By Matt Samet and Luke Laeser

The North Face of the Grand Teton (IV 5.8): One of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America first climbed in 1949. Considered by some to be one of the finest moderate mountain routes in the US with both sustained free climbing and moderate snow/ice climbing. Saddle-up for a long day with an early alpine-start, carry a light rack, crampons, a light mountain axe, a helmet, lots of food, and be prepared for typical Teton weather like snow in July. Descend via the Owen-Spalding route.

The North Ridge of the Grand Teton (IV 5.7): One of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America first climbed in 1931. Although this route is only given grade IV it's a huge day just getting to thee Valhalla Traverse. Carry a light rack, a helmet, lots of food, and be prepared for nasty weather. Descend via the Owen-Spalding route.

The Direct Exum on the Grand Teton (III 5.6): One of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America first climbed in 1936. In the late 90s the team of Hans Florine, Nancy Feagin, Christian Santelices and Willie Benegas climbed 20 of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America in 20 days. A feat that still remains unrepeated or beaten. They climbed the Direct Exum on day seveteen of their super-circuit car to car in 10 hours and 34 minutes. Should you get bouted on the approch to the Lower Saddle, Irene's Arete is a great alternative, since you'll be walking right past it. Carry a light rack, a helmet, lots of food, and be prepared for nasty weather. Descend via the Owen-Spalding route.

The Direct South Buttress on Mount Moran (IV 5.12- or 5.8 A1): One of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America first climbed in 1953. Most parties take an extra half day to approch the route camping about a mile past Leigh Lake. After climbing the first splitter 1500 feet either rappel off a series of fixed anchors to climbers right (leaving the route line), or continue up for 2500 more feet of 4th and easy 5th class climbing to reach the summit. From here most parties descend via the Colorado Mountaineering Club Route. It is possible to descend back to Leigh Canyon via the basin southest of Thor Peak. Carry a standard rack and double ropes if you plan to rappel after the first 1500 feet. Hans Florine, Nancy Feagin, Christian Santelices and Willie Benegas climbed this one during their super-circuit car to car in 9 hours and 53 minutes.

Cathedral Traverse (IV 5.8): This is the first half of the north-to-south Grand Traverse, encompassing Teewinot, Owen, and the Grand Teton. From Lupine Meadows, climb the east face of Teewinot (II Class 4), and then make your way across to Mount Owen, negotiating a sub-peak (peak 11,840+) via rappel, downclimbing, or a traverse around it to the north. On Mount Owen, climb up (then back down) the Koven chimney. Now make your way south toward the Grand via tricky navigation. From Gunsight Notch, climb easy-fifth class up on the Grandstand, and then onto the Grand’s summit via steep, technical rock on the peak’s North Ridge (5.8 via the Italian Cracks). Descend the Owen-Spalding either via 5.4 downclimbing or rappel.