Five More Classics Near Living On The Edge (II 5.10c) Snow Canyon State Park, Utah
By Chirs Van Leuven
Aftershock (5.11b) 4 pitches — Aftershock is located on the same wall, climber's right, as Living on the Edge; well two routes to the right actually, the line directly right of the Edge is an (open) project. (Truth be told, the project is void of usable holds.) Aftershock is incredible. The first pitch (10a; mixed pro and bolts) was established way-back-when by the desert-rat hardman (and prominent, albeit controversial, FA soloist) Ron Olevsky. The following pitches are 10c, 10c, (both bolted) and finishes with a steep, off-finger 11b crack. This line was taken to the rim by Jorge Viser, Bo Beck and Wayne Harding.
The Richness of it All (5.12a) 4 pitches — The Richness of it All is protected in its entirety by bolts. Located on The Warzone (near the Aftershock Wall) this line starts right of a prominent, long alcove. Three pitches of crimping leads to the money pitch: an 11c twisting arete protected by 12 bolts. P2 is the crux.
Atomic Indian (5.11) 1 pitch — Located on the Enclosure, this steep, unrelenting wide hands to finger crack looks like something straight out of Indian Creek; climbs that way too. There's not much else at the Enclosure worth doing, but it's convenient to get to (a sub 10 minute walk from the parking lot). If crack is your game (climbing that is), Atomic Indian should not be missed.
The Doghouse Arete (5.11b) 1 pitch — This blunt arete is characterized by shallow pockets and flat edges. Some holds at the Dogwall look loose — sometimes looks are not deceiving. I've broken a few holds off on this wall (resulting in unexpected falls). That said, the climbing is stellar, and is choice for those with fingers of steel and bulging forearms.
Pierced Ear (5.10c) 1 pitch — Located on the Indian Wall, this slab is guaranteed to have even the seasoned slab climber crying for their momma. Bolts are spaced far apart to keep you engaged, while the hand and footholds are often just barely there. You won't forget your experience on Pierced Ear.
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