Storied ridge-running in alpine New England

Forecast Radar Cameras

While New Hampshire’s rounded topography makes long ridge routes scarce, there are some gems, including the seven-pitch Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle Buttress (the Pinnacle), in Mount Washington’s Huntington Ravine. The peak is infamous for extreme weather and record-breaking winds, but on a nice day in August 1910, George A. Flagg, Mayo Tollman, Paul Bradley, and “Mr. Dennis” made the FA of the Pinnacle via The Old Route (II 5.5) — the first documented roped ascent of technical terrain in the White Mountains. It was here that North American climbing, in the modern sense, came to be . . . even if the climbers used clothesline (or a horse rope) and knew no belay techniques.

In the following years, teams made partial ascents of the nearly 800-foot-long Northeast Ridge, on which The Old Route finishes, but it wasn’t until October 14, 1928, that William Allis and Robert Underhill (on lead, with Dana Durand, Kenneth Henderson, and Jessie Whitehead following) completed the integral FA. At one point, Allis stood on Underhill’s shoulders to surmount an “unclimbable chimney” — today’s 5.7 crux, on pitch four.

To get to the Northeast Ridge, start at Pinkham Notch Visitor Center and hike three miles along the Huntington Ravine Trail, often called the steepest “hiking trail” in the country, with some 5.2 moves. By now you’re at circa 5,000 feet, above treeline, and in an exposed setting with amazing views of White Mountains peaks to the east.

The Northeast Ridge begins with a chossy chimney (5.5) and some bushy ledges leading to the ridge proper. After some fourth class, you reach a 5.7 dihedral, followed by P4’s Allis Chimney — a weird, tapering squeeze. A few ancient pins here provide nominal protection as you heave into the punishing slot.

From a ledge, the route rambles on easy terrain back ridge-ward, where it leads out onto the sixth pitch and the spectacular “fairytale traverse.” This improbable 5.3 hand traverse crosses a green, lichen-covered wall that hangs over 500 feet of air. Far below bubbles the stream that forms Central Gully (II, WI2) in the winter. Two more pitches of easy climbing and traversing put you atop the Pinnacle, with the summit cone of Mount Washington behind you and the Atlantic Ocean squarely ahead.