Climbing
classic climbs
Razor's Edge (II 5.6) The Hand, Superstition Mountains, Arizona
By Andrew Burr


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Laurel Burr leads the crux pitch of Razor’s Edge (II 5.6), Superstition Mountains, Arizona, while Jeffro Snyder belays from Chicken Ledge. Photos by Andrew Burr — www.andrewburr.com

A three-pitch treasure near the mysterious Lost Dutchman Mine

Not everything in the Arizona desert bites and stings — the state’s Lost Dutchman Mine, east of Phoenix somewhere in the Superstition Mountains (aka the “Supes”), is said to hold a vast cache of Spanish gold. In fact, more than 50 people have died searching for the sparkly lode. On his deathbed in 1892, the German prospector Jacob Walz placed the trove near what today is Lost Dutchman State Park, where stands the 150-foot Praying Hand (aka the Hand). The Hand offers treasure of a different sort.

A dacite-core formation, the Hand was first climbed by desert and wall master Bill Forrest circa 1965, with Gary Garbert and Ky Punches. The men raced up the tower 45 minutes, using only hexagonal machine nuts for pro, via what’s now known as the Razor’s Edge. Their line ascends the rock’s spine for three pitches, offering nearly 200 feet of climbing, often protected by manky fixed gear (added after the FA) and finishing with a splendid vista of plains some 3,000 feet lower to the south and west.


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Photos by Andrew Burr — www.andrewburr.com

October through April are the optimal months for the Razor’s Edge. Once at Lost Dutchman State Park, pay a small entrance fee and park near the Cholla Day Use Area, and then hike east on Trail 56 (aka The Treasure Loop Trail) for a mile, to a bench. Just past the seat, a climber’s trail deviates northeast to a saddle right of a dome. From here, contour northeast to the Hand, and then begin via a runout fourth-class gully to the notch below the arête proper.

Pitch two offers slippery climbing past a few vintage bolts and fixed pins — stranding you at the two-bolt belay of Chicken Ledge. A look up at the third (crux) pitch ties your stomach in knots: the arête steepens, and fixed gear becomes less inspiring. You’ll hang onto the airy spine, using slippery volcanic edges, your only consolation the occasional nut or cam. From up top, take in the much-smaller Thumb formation, Tonto National Forest’s wilderness to the north, and the wild and craggy Supes. A double-rope rappel leads to the base, where the hike out lends plenty of opportunity to scan the landscape for Walz’ mystery mine.

Guidebooks: Rock Climbing Arizona, by Stewart M. Green (Falcon, 1999); Superstitions Select, by Greg Opland (Steel Monkey Publishing, 1998)

Guide Services: Arizona Climbing and Adventure School: (480) 363-2390, climbingschool.com; CenterFocus Experiences: (928) 301-3211, thecenterfocus.com

Equipment Shops (Phoenix): Arizona Hiking Shack: 11649 N. Cave Creek Rd., (602) 944-7723; Desert Mountain Sports: 2824 E. Indian School Rd #4, (602) 955-2875; REI: 1405 W. Southern Ave., (602) 967-5494 or 12634 N. Paradise Village Parkway West, (602) 996-5400

Rack: Set of nuts, single set of cams, a dozen runners, two ropes.



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