FIVE CLASSICS NEAR RAZOR’S EDGE, IN THE SUPERSTITION MOUNTAINS, ARIZONA
The Tower (5.8 R)
Ascending the formation of the same name, The Tower is a spicy two-pitcher with scant protection. The first pitch follows a steep face and a trough to a bolted anchor. The second pitch takes a less-than-solid arête to a gully (or, to an alternative face climb on better rock, to the left), and finally to the exposed pinnacle. Suggested gear: two ropes for the rap and assorted Friends and nuts.
The Prong (5.6)
Farther south still, The Prong runs the highest of three spires in the Prong Complex. Some Class 3 and 4 scrambling brings you to a ledge on the north face. A wide crack (the 5.6 part) brings you to another scramble, this time for the summit. Suggested gear: medium to large Friends, and nuts.
The Snake (5.5)
On the huge formation known as The Iceberg, The Snake winds its way up the south face via a chimney to a ridgeline belay, where ends P1. From there, Class 4 climbing brings you to the summit. Suggested gear: medium to large friends, and nuts, and two ropes for the rap.
Grandfather Hobgoblin (III 5.9)
A proud, four-pitch climb up the side of the Hobgoblin Spires, Grandfather Hobgoblin ascends a 5.6 corner to a crack and ledge system for the first pitch. P2 talks a ramp to a notch, from where P3 begins, following a short crack to the crux 5.9 climbing. Three raps get you down. Suggested gear: a wide range of Friends and nuts, and two ropes for descent.
Spider Walk (III 5.6)
Crawling the north face of the North Buttress formation, the four-pitch Spider Walk begins with some Class 4 scrambling to a face climb and a headwall to a trough and the belay station. Pitch 2 follows a runout face to a prow to a ledge by a chimney, where stats pitch 3. Follow the chimney to P4, the “spider walk” pitch, which tackles a chossy traverse to “The Eye,” the final belay station, from where a scramble to the summit is accessible. A 5.7 variation skips the traverse and leads directly to the summit. Suggested gear: Medium to large Friends, nuts, runners, and two 60m (or longer) ropes.
For more on these and other Superstition Mountains routes, check out Rock Climbing Arizona, by Stewart M. Green.