To sort Acadia logistics, visit nps.gov/acad or acadia.national-park.com.

Season: Spring through fall. From Memorial Day to Labor Day, Mount Desert Island (MDI) is packed with tourists and the main cliffs are busy.

Getting There: Head for Ellsworth, the crossroads of Downeast Maine, approximately 20 minutes north of MDI.

Camping: Visit barharborinfo.com.

Recommended Routes:

Otter Cliff: Wonder Wall (5.6-5.7) — 60 feet of vertical buckets directly above the sea.

Precipice: Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+) — a beautiful two/three-pitch crack system looking out to sea.

Great Head: Head Arête (5.10c) — at low tide, perhaps the most classic lead in all of Maine. Mixed bolts and trad with hand jams out a roof and a tricky face crux.

Eagle Crag: Determined Vermin (5.10d) — a classic sandbag. If you like your fingers attached to your hand, try not to blow the opening move.
Canada Cliff: House of Detention (5.11d) — one of the only sport routes on the island and the premier route at this quiet, excellent crag.

—MS

Enlarge
Sea cliff climbing at its best, Otter cliffs, Acadia National Park, Maine. Photo by Jared Ogden / jaredogden.com

MORE CLASSIC CLIMBS:

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