Sea of Holes (II 5.10- R), Hueco Tanks

The Beta
Guidebooks: Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide (second edition), by John Sherman (Falcon, 1995); Rock Climbing New Mexico and Texas, by Dennis Jackson (Falcon, 1996); mountainproject.com

Guide Services: Hueco Rock Ranch: (915) 857-1135; huecorockranch.com

Equipment Shop: Sports Authority (for chalk and basics): 801 Sunland Park Dr., El Paso; (915) 584-6556

Reservations: Make reservations at least two days prior to your trip (and much longer during winter high season), even for North Mountain. Visit tpwd.state.tx.us or call (915) 849-6684 for info.

Rack: Ten quickdraws, slings for anchors, and selected cams

Show us your classic photo of Sea of Holes and win a Madillo from Edelrid!
Log on to climbing.com’s Photo Post, submit your Sea of Holes images to the Classic Climbs folder, and on February 15, photographer Jim Thornburg will pick his favorite. The winning photographer receives a stylin’ Madillo helmet ($110 value) from Edelrid.

Five Classics near the Sea of Holes, Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, Texas

By Matt Samet 

If the Sea of Holes hasn’t given you the blood-pumping Hueco fix you were looking for, the Front Side has plenty of other rope-stretcher face/mixed classics to sink your teeth into.

Cakewalk (5.6): Steep and exposed for the grade, this is a trad-style two-pitch lead on the left (north) end of the Front Side, up a right-leaning line down and right a bit from the Flake Roof. Bring lots of small wires and be solid at the grade.
Beta: mountainproject.com
Gear: Standard rack 

Malice in Bucketland (5.10-): You don’t get many bolts on this one (eight in 150 feet), but the holds are solid and welcoming, with lots of big-hueco pod rests. A top pitch (Busted) up a rounded arête gets you up and over.
Beta: mountainproject.com
Gear: Quickdraws; 70-meter rope

Indecent Exposure (5.9): A beautiful, improbable, and serious route up the airiest buttress at the Tanks. The crux comes on the second-pitch traverse, so leader and second should be equally solid at the grade.
Beta: mountainproject.com
Gear: Standard rack, with lots of long slings 

Fox Trot (5.9+): Solid face holds and the occasional flat hueco see you up this pleasant buttress, toward the right (south) side of the Front Side.
Beta: mountainproject.com
Gear: Seven bolts, and a few mid-range nuts

Wyoming Cowgirl (5.12-): Not a lead (unless you’re really bold), this fine toprope up the chocolate-brown north face of the End Boulder is a classic Todd Skinner Hueco pump and a good intro to harder iron-rock crimping.

Gear: Anchor set-up and 100 feet of toproping line