The Line, Lover's Leap, California

Bear's Reach (5.7) Follow flake systems up the center of the East Wall through two belays (P1-good belay ledge, P2-Bushy Ledge belay), and finish via the dike, leading to a ramp to the top.

Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) Start to the left of Crud Gullly, following the big crack on the main pillar that leads slightly left into another big crack to a good belay. The next pitch will lead you up about twenty feet, then into a traverse that leads you around the corner to a bunch of sills and easier climbing. Belay off a smaller ledge above (look for a large knob). Easy climbing above finishes the route.

Traveler Buttress (5.9) Another must-do for the area, TB climbs the longest line at Lover's Leap. Start on Tombstone Ledge, climbing the parallel cracks to some roofs. Keep to the left on this pitch, climbing up to Main Ledge for the belay. Next climb the tenuous crack, finding a belay at the ramp near the top. Climb into the arete, and into a belay ledge (up and left) near a prominent rib. Follow sills for two more pitches to the top.

Corrugation Corner (5.7) This climb has three variations: 5.7, 5.8, and a 5.9. The 5.7 version climbs into the large corner off Main Ledge, left through a ceiling then into a belay to the right in the main corner of the climb. Follow this corner for a little while, working left into some cracks that lead to the base of chimney. Get into the chimney, traversing right when it begins to spit you out on a sill to the corner. This corner will lead to a belay at a sill. Finish on easy climbing through steep terrain.

Haystack Crack (5.8) Just another classic for the area. This route starts far left on the East Wall following a beautiful, right-facing dihedral to a roof at the halfway point. Another long crack pitch leads to a good belay ledge. Run through the crux roof (stay in the corner) to the top. Pro: small to medium cams and stoppers.

East Wall (5.6) Uses smaller pro (up to 2.5 inches) to climb up prominent sills. Begin in the dihedral to the left of The Line at about the middle of the East Wall of Lover's Leap. Pitch two belays on a huge ledge at the top of the dihedral. Work a large flake into a crack above it, finishing the pitch at a smaller belay at using a horn. Traverse left on more sills to the Bushy Ledge belay. From here, traverse right on good, obvious flakes to another good belay ledge. Finish up and left on sills to a ramp that leads to the top.

Rack Beta for The Line: small to medium cams, stoppers up to 2.5 inches, and slings.

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