Holly came from Miami, F.L.A.
Hitchhiked her way across the USA
Plucked her eyebrows on the way
Shaved her legs and then he was a she
She says, Hey babe
Take a walk on the wild side
Hey honey
Take a walk on the wild side
—Lou Reed
As one of the largest climbing areas in the world, with about 5,000 routes to choose from, Joshua Tree could keep you busy for a lifetime, though it hardly registers as a place to go for longer routes. One notable exception is Walk on the Wild Side, a 600-foot beeline up the right side of Saddle Rock, the largest stone in the Monument. This southwest-facing slab soaks up the sun, making a perfect climb for those brisk Joshua Tree winter afternoons.
Many a budding climber first tastes the adventurous world of multi-pitch climbing on this beautiful, featured line. But, moderate or not, Wild Side deserves some respect: Runouts and route-finding conundrums add that classic element, and many parties have inadvertently found themselves on the 5.10 R/X routes that lie to either side.
Usually, routes with the plus rating climb extra solid for their grades, and Walk on the Wild Side proves no different (many consider it 5.8). For your smearing pleasure, set yourself adrift in a sea of amazing patina and endless sloping dishes carved by the magic of erosion. Climbing Wild Side will hone your under-vertical technique, teaching you how to grit through J-Tree sloper loaves as your burning calves beg for mercy.
While many J-Tree routes call for the full trad rack, you only need a set of draws for Wild Side … and some slab skills. Expect to clip about 10 bolts per ropelength, with bolted belays. The climb begins at the very toe of the formation and moves more or less directly to the free-standing summit in three glorious, airy pitches. The first pitch (crux) will grab your attention with its committing moves leftward after the third bolt. Leave the bolt behind you. Test your focus and commitment, but don’t get too psyched out: All the cruxes have great protection, and the runouts cover easier ground. Two ropelengths (and a little bit of third class) later, you’ll find yourself on the exposed, free-standing summit — a great place to take in the vast landscape of endless, surreal, quartz-monzonite domes. A single-rope rappel and a lot of scrambling bring you back to your pack.
If you happen to find yourself in the Park during the full moon, take part in an oddball Joshua Tree tradition by climbing Walk on the Wild Side by moonlight — a great way to enjoy the high-desert environment. With the full moon, you can’t see the exposure … or the bolts, far beneath your feet.
Photo by Greg Epperson
> Guidebook Rock Climbing Joshua Tree, by Randy Vogel
Enlarge
