2009 GOLDEN PITON AWARDS

Bouldering

NALLE HUKKATAIVAL

While American superstars like Chris Sharma and Alex Honnold have been heating up climbing media lately, Finland’s Nalle Hukkataival has been crushing hard projects around the world, most notably in South Africa’s Rocklands and Hueco Tanks, Texas. Hukkataival has been on the bouldering scene since 1998, placing first in several international comps such as Arco Rockmaster (2006) and the Nordic Championships (2004). 

Perhaps Hukkataival’s most impressive 2009 send was his 26-foot V15 FA, Livin’ Large, in the Rocklands. Says Hukkataival of the problem, “Livin' Large is by far the hardest thing I've ever climbed… The movement is anything but simple.” His attempts spanned 12 days, dialing the technical arête’s 24 moves. Earlier this year, Hukkataival also repeated the Japanese slab testpiece Bansousha (had been given V15; Hukkataival suggested V13) and grabbed the fourth ascent of Colorado’s lone V15, Jade, after having worked it for only two days in RMNP’s snowy conditions.

Another remarkable high note is Hukkataival’s February 2009 trip to Hueco Tanks, where he flashed four V12s, including Fred Nicole’s Full Monty, and established two V13s, The Machinist and Tequila Sunrise. “[The Machinist] is a long problem that climbs out a big roof with long moves,” blogged Hukkataival. “Moves on it are just awesome.” He also sent two V14s, Couer de Leon and Nagual, and several more V13s, including Full Throttle, Algerita, and Alma Blanca. 

Honorable Mentions:

• Kevin Jorgeson, of California, for his FA of Ambrosia, a 45-foot 5.14 X highball on Grandpa Peabody, at the Buttermilk, Bishop. That same afternoon, he made the second ascent of Shawn Diamond’s scary highball Luminance (V11) on his third try.
• Tony Lamprecht, 37, of Germany, for his FA of a possible V16 at Altantiswand, in Kochel, Germany. After working the problem since October 2008, he finally sent this 20-move link-up of the blocs Bokassa’s Fridge and Assassin, Monkey and Man, rating it as one of the hardest in the world.