2010 Shoe Review

So you think your favorite rock shoes are the crème de la crème? Think again. New for this year are 19 models (plus two time-tested Mammut shoes) that will make you reconsider – and perhaps redefine – the perfect rock shoe. We asked 11 companies to send us two of their latest (Acopa sent one) shoes for us to put to the test. Our 17 testers used and abused said kicks for the last few months on plastic, boulders, sport routes, and trad lines across the country in order to give you the bottom line.

As with past reviews, extraordinary models win Climbing Magazine’s Editor’s Choice Award.

CLIMBING SHOES

Acopa Merlin Strap CLIMBING EDITORS' CHOICE
$149.00 acopausa.com
The Merlin Strap is a soft, extremely sensitive hook-and-loop version of Acopa’s popular Merlin lace-up. Tiny face holds, jams, smears, hooks — this asymmetric, downturned shoe does it all. The unlined leather uppers quickly form-fitted to testers’ feet — both narrow and wide —stretching nearly a full size in the process. The result is a snug yet comfortable fit that testers rated above average at all climbing styles. The Merlin Strap’s rubber (4.2mm Acopa RS) is über-sticky and soft; they don’t edge as well as they “smeadge.” I found myself frontpointing or smearing rather than edging on the wee footholds, and it worked beautifully.
Ideal Uses: Bouldering, sport. Excels on vertical to super-steep terrain.
Bottom Line: Comfortable, form- fitting, extremely sensitive. Expensive.

Boreal Storm
$139.00 e-boreal.com
The Storm is the latest in Boreal’s long line of high-end Velcros… or is it a lace-up? The first thing you’ll notice about this shoe is the MiFit tightening system — a new Velcro/lace hybrid that offers easy-on, easy-off, plus a fine-tuned fit. With a slightly asymmetric, downturned last, half-midsole, and sticky 4-4.6mm (depending on shoe size) FS QUATTRO rubber, the Storm is equally adept at all angles. Unlined split leather uppers and a padded mesh tongue offer a comfortable fit, so depending on how you size them, these babies can sesh on plastic or cruise all-day trad. One tester griped that the lacing system tightened unevenly, while another said the heel felt baggy. But overall, our testers dug this comfy all-arounder.
Ideal Uses: Bouldering, plastic, sport, all-day trad.
Bottom Line: A comfortable, high-end, all-around shoe.

Boreal Tribal
$119.00 e-boreal.com
Most slippers can’t edge on a deck of cards, but then there’s Boreal’s latest slipper with a half midsole: the Tribal. While they won’t dime-edge like full-shank klettershoes, these asymmetric, slightly downturned kicks (with 4-4.6mm FS QUATTRO rubber) stick to edgy face climbs as well as the caves. The uppers are mostly leather with a mesh/elastic foot wrap that seals the fit. While the Tribal doesn’t excel at any particular climbing style, most testers said they would buy this shoe because it can handle any terrain well, and it’s an ideal training slipper.
Ideal Uses: Indoor training, all-around bouldering and sport.
Bottom Line: A competent slipper, stiffer than most, climbs everything.