2010 Shoe Review

CaVa T-Rex Raptor
$109.95 libertymountainclimbing.com
CaVa’s latest slipper is a radically downturned and asymmetric steep-climbing machine. One tester raved about its precision on small face holds, while others lauded its sensitivity and hooking capabilities. The T-Rex Raptor fits an average-width foot, and its unlined, perforated, synthetic upper stretches up to half a size. The 4.2mm Stealth Black Magic rubber ensures a grippy feel on everything vertical to upsidedown. As with previous models, CaVa shoes can be fragile: one tester’s pull-tabs tore off easily on just the second use. Regardless, the T-Rex Raptor is a high-end slipper for pushing your limits.
Ideal Uses: Bouldering and sport, vertical to super steep.
Bottom Line: High-performance slipper. Not very durable.

CaVa T-Rex Women
$115.95 libertymountainclimbing.com
Created for a low-volume foot, the T-Rex Women was among testers’ most comfortable assignments. Synthetic uppers and a cotton lining offer little stretch, so you can expect an out-of-the-box fit for the life of the shoe. Built on an asymmetric-board last with a very slight downturn, these are designed for slabs, faces, cracks and all-day use. One tester liked these shoes so much that they’re now her go-to shoe for anything hard outdoors. There were no complaints about the T-Rex Women from testers, but also nothing that really sets them apart.
Ideal Uses: Face climbing, all-day trad.
Bottom Line: An all-around, comfortable, low-volume shoe.

Evolv Defy VTR
$89.00 evolvesports.com
These flat-lasted, asymmetric hook-and-loop kicks are no-nonsense, solid all-arounders. A half-midsole adds a hint of rigidity to this otherwise soft, sensitive shoe. A perforated, synthetic upper and nylon lining prevent much stretch, while the two Velcro straps snug the fit. All testers applauded the Defy VTR’s relaxed fit; one called them “super comfy.” From indoor climbing to desert cracks, these babies received high marks in all categories. Evolv’s 4.2mm TRAX XT-5 rubber stuck to everything we tested. At $89 these are the least expensive shoes in the review.
Ideal Uses: Everything except super steep.
Bottom Line: Very comfortable, well-made shoe at an exceptional price.

Evolv Talon G2 CLIMBING EDITORS' CHOICE
$125.00 evolvesports.com
The Talon G2 offers a vacuum-tight, slipper-like fit with the benefit of laces for a fine-tuning that changes little over time. The fully perforated, cotton-lined, synthetic upper guarantees minimal stretch. Designed for steep plastic, bouldering, and sport, the heavily downturned, asymmetric last forces power into the toe for superb edging and “grabbing” on overhangs. The 4.2mm TRAX XT-5 rubber is sticky and durable, and received higher-than-average marks from testers. The toe box and heel are slathered with rubber, making it one of the best heel and toe hookers in the review. If one improvement could be made, it would be a pointier toe box, but that’s merely a quibble for an otherwise ideal steep climbing boot.
Ideal Uses: High-end steeps: bouldering, sport, plastic.
Bottom Line: A top-of-the-line shoe for hard sending.