Backyard Backcountry

Center Thumb (III 5.9),
South Summit Wall,
Lone Peak Cirque

Sandbagging fellow climbers with an “honest” grade is as old as
climbing itself. For instance, many routes that were established during decades past used a code: If a pitch was graded “5.9,” it had teeth. Fortunately, the Center Thumb was only rated 5.7 when it was put up over three decades ago by the prolific Lowe brothers. Today, however, it has been bumped up to 5.9 — i.e., expect adventure, but be glad that the big number is a retro, not an “honest,” grade. Tucked into the back of the cirque, the “thumb” is a 600-foot finger pasted onto a gigantic granitic canvas. As you climb this central line, the formation’s dihedrals fall into the void on both sides. Wiggling pro into the thin cracks baffles the synapses, as does the notion that this route was established in leather hiking boots.
Higher, well-protected overhanging hand cracks lead around and onto the top of the thumb proper. Settle in at the cozy belay, pull off your shoes, let your feet hang out, and bring up your second as you gaze out at the Great Salt Lake, far to the northwest. Pikas chirp, ransacking your camp far below as you helplessly watch. Over your shoulder, the final pitch ascends clean cracks with enough exposure to keep hangliders happy. Scramble to the summit, gaze toward the tiny buildings of downtown, wave to passengers on jet airplanes, and breathe the rarified air of 11,253 feet. You made it! 5.7, right?

Jam Crack Route (II 5.6),
Mule Hollow Wall,
Big Cottonwood Canyon

Big Cottonwood is home to a plethora of quartzite routes, ranging from steep roadside sport climbs to long alpine adventures. The Mule Hollow Wall, hugging the outer flanks of the massive Storm Mountain, offers a welcome relief from the crowds of the lower canyon. A mellow approach up the rocky bed of an ever-gushing stream leads to a steep scramble and this east-facing wall. Basking in the morning sun, the scenic Jam Crack Route offers three pitches of fine crack climbing with posh, bolted belay ledges. Jam Crack will test your pro-placing and jamming skills as it arches up through the center of the wall, and then fades into nothingness toward the top.
The upper crack (or lack thereof) tempts you from afar, only to mock you with poor gear opportunities as you approach. Dime-sized edges become your friend; knowing how best to utilize them will save you from overgripping, as will sewing up the frequent (but not quite frequent enough) horizontals. At the top, persevere: One micro-nut placement after another, coupled with sheer stubbornness, will guide you up this testy 5.6.

Lowe Route (II 5.8),
Question Mark Wall,
Lone Peak Cirque

Lone Peak Cirque is worth each of the four-and-a-half miles — and 5,000 feet of elevation gain — earned during its approach. The Question Mark Wall is the centerpiece of Lone Peak Cirque, Utah’s first designated wilderness area, and is home to vertical granite walls that stretch up to five pitches in length. Cracks, knobs, and solution pockets litter the walls, producing climbs from 5.4 to 5.12b A3.
Jeff and Greg Lowe established numerous classics here throughout the 1970s. One of the best in the Wasatch, and a contender for the best alpine route in the Lower Forty-Eight, is the brothers’ classic Lowe Route, which bisects the left side of the Question Mark Wall. The route is sustained for its entire three-pitch length, and the cracks are consummate gear gobblers. For a little variety, step right for a 5.8+ last-pitch variation that navigates a sea of chickenheads through the famous question mark.

Beckey Route (II 5.9 R),
West Bell Tower,
Bells Canyon

There seems to be a Beckey Route everywhere, so why should the Wasatch be any different? Thankfully, it isn’t. In the 1960s, Mr. Beckey strolled up Bells Canyon and picked one of his many plums, the grandest line on the granite dome of West Bell Tower. Repeating this climb takes you back to the time of legends. The first pitch’s crack
diagonals out of the shrubs and rounds out to a groove above a roof; here, crafty climbers slap a Screamer on the 40-year-old buttonhead protecting the crux. This is the spice of climbing, the fodder for campfire stories of heinous runouts. Wide and small, straightforward or tucked in a corner — cracks of all flavors define this seminal Wasatch route. Beware of the final pitch, however, as constant weathering is turning the granite into kitty litter.

West Slabs (III 5.5),
Mount Olympus

Rising to 9,026 feet straight out of the backyards of Olympus Cove’s multimillion-dollar mansions, Mount Olympus, with its sheer, intimidating north face, is one of SLC’s most striking peaks. Far below, the cityscape tests the confines of the Great Salt Lake Valley, threatening to contribute more tarnished air to the city’s fabled inversion layers.
The West Slabs is a favorite afternoon solo, long enjoyed by many an SLC hardperson. However, this 2,000-foot quartzite slab can also be pitched out, with adequate protection and nice belay ledges (bring long runners and be prepared to craft anchors). If your calves haven’t totally cramped up, round out your day with a blocky half-mile of knife-edge ridge running to the true summit of Mount Olympus, an oddly flat, pedestrian perch that contrasts sharply with the daunting Nordwand.

The Eleventh Hour (III 5.8),
Sundial Peak,
Big Cottonwood Canyon

Rising above the turquoise alpine waters of Lake Blanche, the jagged sawtooth of Sundial Peak dominates the hanging valleys and basins of the Twin Peaks Wilderness. This bad boy, a 10,320-foot mountain that’s seemingly crafted for postcard photos, boasts a triangle-shaped summit that stands proud amongst its loftier neighbors. A well-maintained trail winds its way up through stands of aspen and birch, crossing potable mountain streams on route to the ever-tempting Lake Blanche, three miles up the Mill B South Fork trail. This is a great place to scope the Eleventh Hour, a series of stunning dihedrals up Sundial’s imposing northeast spine.
The adventure starts near the top of the first pitch, where the corner slams shut, forcing you onto the face. Two more pitches with thin gear take you up through dihedrals and arêtes. Climb fast and climb smart (the ledges are laden with loose rock), and watch as the shadow of Sundial Peak races through the valley until alpenglow consumes the range.

Arm and Hammer (III 5.10- A0),
Middle Bell Tower,
Bells Canyon

Arm and Hammer is hands-down one of the Wasatch’s absolutely classic lines. Located just past West Bell Tower, this aptly named formation is the middle of three prominent granite towers (or “bells”) that flank the north side of this textbook glacial valley.
Arm and Hammer houses one of the wildest and greatest 5.8 pitches anywhere — the Zion Curtain, a paper-thin granite sheet that’s more of a tear in the stone than a flake proper. The pitch is protected at its top and bottom by a single bolt in each locale; gear on this 60-foot layback pitch is optional — there are no guarantees that it (or the Zion Curtain) will hold. Think “light” as you savor the deep tenor boom of this funky feature, which comes to life as you gingerly bump and prod your way upward.
Next, you’ll be served a fine selection of thin slab climbing, fingerlocks, hand jams, and chicken wings on the remaining two ropelengths. Two tension traverses — one at the start of pitch two, the other at the beginning of pitch three (which access the Zion Curtain) — give the route its A0 rating, but hardpersons can tick it free at 5.11c.