Center Thumb (III 5.9),
South Summit Wall,
Lone Peak Cirque

Sandbagging fellow climbers with an “honest” grade is as old as
climbing itself. For instance, many routes that were established during decades past used a code: If a pitch was graded “5.9,” it had teeth. Fortunately, the Center Thumb was only rated 5.7 when it was put up over three decades ago by the prolific Lowe brothers. Today, however, it has been bumped up to 5.9 — i.e., expect adventure, but be glad that the big number is a retro, not an “honest,” grade. Tucked into the back of the cirque, the “thumb” is a 600-foot finger pasted onto a gigantic granitic canvas. As you climb this central line, the formation’s dihedrals fall into the void on both sides. Wiggling pro into the thin cracks baffles the synapses, as does the notion that this route was established in leather hiking boots.
Higher, well-protected overhanging hand cracks lead around and onto the top of the thumb proper. Settle in at the cozy belay, pull off your shoes, let your feet hang out, and bring up your second as you gaze out at the Great Salt Lake, far to the northwest. Pikas chirp, ransacking your camp far below as you helplessly watch. Over your shoulder, the final pitch ascends clean cracks with enough exposure to keep hangliders happy. Scramble to the summit, gaze toward the tiny buildings of downtown, wave to passengers on jet airplanes, and breathe the rarified air of 11,253 feet. You made it! 5.7, right?