The Eleventh Hour (III 5.8),
Sundial Peak,
Big Cottonwood Canyon

Rising above the turquoise alpine waters of Lake Blanche, the jagged sawtooth of Sundial Peak dominates the hanging valleys and basins of the Twin Peaks Wilderness. This bad boy, a 10,320-foot mountain that’s seemingly crafted for postcard photos, boasts a triangle-shaped summit that stands proud amongst its loftier neighbors. A well-maintained trail winds its way up through stands of aspen and birch, crossing potable mountain streams on route to the ever-tempting Lake Blanche, three miles up the Mill B South Fork trail. This is a great place to scope the Eleventh Hour, a series of stunning dihedrals up Sundial’s imposing northeast spine.
The adventure starts near the top of the first pitch, where the corner slams shut, forcing you onto the face. Two more pitches with thin gear take you up through dihedrals and arêtes. Climb fast and climb smart (the ledges are laden with loose rock), and watch as the shadow of Sundial Peak races through the valley until alpenglow consumes the range.