I looked directly left toward the belay. The rope made a long, sad droop before it hit a piece of protection. “I think you’re at the first R part,” said, Kennan. Off to the right, I could see what looked like a crack, but it was another seven or eight feet out. The rock in between appeared blank. The holds under my hands and feet were classic Sandia granite, rounded and gritty, and I sensed that I had limited time before nerves and gravity got to me.
“I’m going to move another few feet, see if I can get in some gear,” I said. I palmed a shallow dish, reached out for a sidepull, rocked over as delicately as I could onto my right foot — then breathed a sigh of relief. A cam-sized fissure appeared before my nose. Back at the belay, Kennan gave me a thumbs-up.
We were four pitches up Rainbow Dancer on the Shield, a 1000-foot formation that dominates the northern skyline above the shopping malls and million-dollar homes that comprise the Northeast Heights of Albuquerque, New Mexico. The Shield receives even less traffic than formations in other areas of the uncrowded Sandia Mountains, and we weren’t gunning for one of the more popular lines. By best estimate, our route had seen fewer than a dozen ascents in over twenty years. Its grade — 5.11a R — isn’t tough by modern standards, but the route has a reputation for an ass-kicking approach, complex route finding, loose rock, and runouts, all of which conspire to keep away crowds. What’s appealing is that it takes a direct path up the Shield’s middle, weaving a sinuous line through a series of huge roofs, and then punches straight for the top. After ten years of climbing in the range, I finally felt ready to attempt it, and Kennan, though new to the Sandias, had bought into the project. Now, it was nearly noon and we were just getting into the route’s meat.
I finished the pitch, brought Kennan over, and we gazed at the overhangs directly above. They looked as welcoming as a car wreck; a short, steep crack gave way to a slab devoid of obvious protection, followed by the ominous, chunky roofs. I handed Kennan the rack. “Your lead!”