Buoux: Revisiting France's Crag of the 1980s

Getting there: Buoux is located in the Provence region of southeastern France. The closest major airports are Nîmes, Marseille, and Toulon, all less than two hours drive. Buses travel regularly from Avignon to Apt, but you’ll most likely want to rent car, as Apt is a 15-minute drive from the climbing, and there are many excellent climbing options within a few hours drive. From the west, take the A7 Autoroute du Soleil into Avignon, and then continue to Apt.

From the east, take the A51 roadway. From the popular camping at Apt, head south through town (the roads are narrow and winding; best to get a local map when you arrive) until you pick up D113 to the town of Buoux. Pass through the town and stay left around a hairpin turn for the crags.

Where to stay: Apt and Bonnieux provide campgrounds and hotels for climbers. The main campsite in Apt, Les Cédres, is close to village shopping and has its own climbing wall, while Bonnieux offers a much quieter setting. Guidebooks: France: Haute Provence, by Adrian Berry (rockfax.com) and Buoux, by Pierre Duret, Bruno Fara, and Serge Jaulin (available at campgrounds and local shops; proceeds go to maintaining cliffs)

Season: For the most part, the cliffs are in the sun for much of the day, so aim for spring and fall. Winter and summer are both hit-and-miss.

Nearby crags: Venasque, to the northwest, is a limestone crag with plenty of slopers and edges, the antidote to a Buoux pocket overdose. Volx, to the northeast, is a steep crag that offers rainproof climbs. Both crags are a sub-one-hour drive. Within three hours, you can access more world-class crags like Saint Léger, Verdon, and Ceüse.

Gear: A 70-meter rope and 15 quickdraws should get you up most climbs.

Recommended routes: Buoux is home to some 500 routes, a great crag for the mid-level to expert climber, with the majority of lines falling between 5.10 and 5.11b. Some classics include:
La Gibottière (5.10), La Dérive
Cri de Guerre (5.11a), Fakir
Des Verts Pépères (5.11b), Scorpion-La Plage
Humanoïdes (5.11c), Les Devers
TCF (5.11d), Secteur TCF
No Man’s Land (5.12a), No Man’s Land
Les Flammes du Désir (5.12b), Excalibur
Rambo (5.12c), La Dérive
Autoroute du Soleil (5.12d), Autoroute
Rêve de Papillon (5.13b), Rêve sector
La Rose et le Vampire (5.13d), Bout du Monde