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Adventure Climbing in Corsica
Photo by Gabe Rogel
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Corsica Logistics
Seasons: Spring and fall are superb in Corsica. Summer is warmer, but highly touristed over much of the island. The coastal sport climbing is good all winter, but climbing in the Bavella might involve ice and snow.
Getting There: Fly to Nice, Marseilles, or Italy, and then take a plane ($150-200) directly to Corsica’s capital, Ajaccio, which has the most reliable air service and is convenient to the Col de Bavella. Alternately, take a ferry ($90 during the shoulder season; additional $130 for a car) from Marseilles, Toulon, Genoa, Livorno, or Sardinia.
Getting Around: If you’re headed for the Col de Bavella, base yourself in Ajaccio, also near the better sport areas. Calvi is best for the northern island (i.e., the Restonica and other sport areas). You can cross the island in less than four (tortuous) hours.
Guidebooks: Guidebooks are difficult to obtain in the United States. Corse: L’ile Verticale, by Martial Lacroix and Pierre Sanchou, is a best-of guide. At the Auberge, you can buy several Bavella guides, including Rocca e Sole, by Jean-Paul Quilici and Francis Thibaudeu. (Consulting the local guide, the Livre d’Or, located at the Auberge, is a must.) Corte Restonica et Tavignano covers the Restonica. Also, visit coronn.com to download topos.
Lodging, Col de Bavella: The family-owned Auberge du Col de Bavella, home of the Livre d’Or, is the most popular climber doss (email: auberge-bavella@wanadoo.fr, 04-95-72-09-87; $16 to $30; reservations recommended in the summer). Go upscale ($65 to $90) with the bed and breakfast Hameau de Cavanello (04-95-78-66-82), only seven kilometers from the Col. Or get down and dirty at the Camping Municipal de Zonza, four kilometers from the Col toward Zonza.
Lodging, Restonica: Hotels, hostels, and campgrounds abound in Corte, the principle city of the region.
Food: In Zonza, restaurant Le Randonneur has fantastic pizza at a reasonable price. There are also two grocery stores.
Moolah: ATMs are found at most post offices in Corsica, and closest to the Bavella, the town of Levie. Corsica is expensive: Expect a 10 percent increase over mainland prices.
Gear: For the Bavella, bring a good-sized rack (cams up to 4” and a solid selection of nuts and RPs), a 60-meter rope, a tag line, webbing, rap rings … and a half-dozen bail biners.
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