Crazy Eights

All-day climbs don’t have to be epic, monstrously difficult routes that leave you panting with exhaustion and thirsting for safety. Many adventurous rock climbs have relatively moderate ratings and good protection. (But don’t be too complacent—some of these routes don’t let you off easy!) Here, we’ve collected some of our favorite long 5.8 climbs—each doable in a day from the car—based on personal experience, suggestions from guidebook authors, and general popularity.

1. White Punks on Dope (5.8+, 6 pitches)
Voodoo Dome, Needles, California
Wildly varying in climbing style, but boasting clean rock the whole way, White Punks on Dope on the 900-foot-tall Voodoo Dome is a can’t-miss route. The line literally offers everything: corners, knobs, cracks, roofs, laybacking, and chimney climbing. “Every pitch is so unique and classic in its own right, and that is very much a signature trait of this route,” says first ascensionist Richard Leversee. “The semi-wilderness setting and the stunning views of the Needles contribute to the whole experience.” Two members of the FA team, E.C. Joe and Scott Edmiaston, named the route after a popular Tubes song of the day. Leversee and Joe admit their memory of the descent is stronger than that of the actual ascent. “The most accurate description of that legendary Voodoo ascent would be stumbling down blindly in the pitch darkness at some ridiculous hour of the night, in the middle of who knows where, with the wildest, stupidest grins on our faces,” Joe says. After the one-hour approach hike, begin this route on a 5.7 knobby crack—a 60-meter rope is crucial for this pitch—and then see how well-rounded you are as a climber. Pitch four’s memorable wavy, left-facing dihedral will be forever etched into your mind. Bring cams to 3 inches; consider a No. 4 or 4.5 for pitch four’s offwidth. Late spring through late fall provide the best weather.

GUIDEBOOK: California Road Trip, a Climber’s Guide to Northern California, by Tom Slater; mountainproject.com

2. The Diagonal (5.8, 7 pitches)
Wallface, Adirondacks, New York
With almost six million acres, the Adirondacks provide a true backcountry climbing experience; it’s not uncommon to go several days without seeing another climber. The Diagonal epitomizes that wildness; set deep in the High Peaks, Wallface has fickle route-finding and a long approach; the shortest hike, from the Upper Works trailhead (south), is about three hours. The Diagonal starts at the south end of the cliff—look for an open area surrounded by birch trees and a flat boulder. “Climbing on Wallface is a great adventure because of the setting,” says Dave Horowitz, author of Selected Climbs in the Northeast. “Although the route itself is obvious, you don’t really get to see the cliff until you are on it; the boulders just somehow rise up and become the cliff.” The Diagonal follows a low-angled, right-leaning ramp that widens to 50 feet in places, leading to an exciting, steep dihedral that brings you to the top of the cliff. “The view from here is stunning,” Horowitz says. “Nothing but mountains as far as the eye can see.” The High Peaks have a short summer climbing season, with snow on high elevations lingering until June. If climbing before September, be sure to bring plenty of insect repellant. “Black flies plus you plus a belay ledge equals death,” as Horowitz puts it. Descend by rappelling the route with two 60-meter ropes; start with a fixed anchor 15 feet left of the route’s finish.

GUIDEBOOK: Adirondack Rock, a Rock Climber’s Guide, by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas.