Deep South Water Scrambling

(Somewhat) Recommended Chattanooga-Area Water Scrambling

NICKAJACK LAKE
Nickajack Lake, on the Tennessee River below Chattanooga, is well known for its magnificent scenery. Prior to the construction of the defective Hales Bar Dam in 1913, this section of the river was seen as an extreme navigational hazard, due to strong currents, unpredictable water levels, and objects like boulders and fallen trees. The Hales Bar Dam and its subsequent replacement in 1967 by the Nickajack Dam not only made year-round navigation on the Tennessee River possible, but by raising water levels it had the unintended side effect of opening up the riverside cliffs to future generations of climbers.

Easy to access by kayak or motorboat from a nearby boat ramp, Nickajack Lake offers stellar moderate climbing on slightly overhanging and vertical black-and-white limestone over 30- to 40-foot-deep, jet-black water. The climbing is technical and difficult to decipher, and the general absence of chalk on the wall lends itself nicely to a more adventurous experience. The holds can be a bit brittle near waterline, but the rock higher up is mostly bomber, offering an assortment of ribbed tufas, the occasional hueco, and plenty of slopers on fine-grained limestone. At its highest point, the cliff is approximately 45 feet tall. Several marinas on the lake offer boat rentals.

Getting there: From I-24 westbound, exit 158. Follow signs to Nickajack Dam Reservation/ Shellmound Campground. To access the cliffs, launch at one of the boat ramps and head east, away from the dam, back toward I-24. In approximately one mile, you will see the cliffs on your left.

LITTLE RIVER CANYON
Little River Canyon, located in northern Alabama about 70 miles from Chattanooga, is a beautiful sandstone gorge choked with surreal-looking boulders in a rugged and forested setting. Best known in the climbing community for the sandstone sport climbing on the bluffs, the 25-mile-long canyon’s most adventurous climbing is found among the thousands of boulders littering the streambed at areas like Canyon Mouth, DeSoto Falls, and the Hippie Hole.

CANYON MOUTH DAY-USE AREA: Located in an easy-to-access section of the Little River National Preserve, this popular picnic area is dotted with large grills and tables, all within viewing distance of some really enjoyable deep-water bouldering.

Getting there: Coming from Fort Payne on Route 35, make a right onto Highway 273. Make another right at County Road 275 after crossing Little River. Stay right and continue to the gate; stop at the fee booth ($3). No camping. The boulders are located downstream from the picnic area.

DESOTO STATE PARK: Once called home by the Cherokee, DeSoto Falls is ironically named in honor of the Spanish conquistador who penetrated some of the deepest parts of Alabama, bringing disease and violence in search of gold and a passage to China. An abandoned dam built in the 1920s sits on top of the falls, and in the summer the shallow-water soloing here can feel more like true soloing.

Getting there: Coming from Chattanooga on I-59 southbound, take exit 231 for AL- 117 south. Turn right toward CR- 89/DeSoto Parkway. Make an immediate left onto DeSoto Parkway, and take the first right onto CR-613. This becomes DeSoto Falls Road and takes you into the parking area. Cross the top of the dam and follow the obvious trail that leads to the base of the falls.

THE HIPPIE HOLE: If Canyon Mouth is the preferred spot for families, then the Hippie Hole is the alternative for a sketchier crowd. The smell of cannabis wafting through the air may be a bit distracting, but the maze of boulders is what will get you really high. If you walk downriver from the main entrance to the park, you will find one of the highest concentrations of cool-looking lines in Little River Canyon.

Getting there: Coming from Fort Payne on Route 35, pass the Little River Canyon Center and cross the bridge above the main Little River Falls. Make a right at the second parking lot and follow the trail down to the river. Walk up- or downstream: the boulders are everywhere.

MOWBRAY MOUNTAIN: BLUE HOLE

Blue Hole, located at the base of Mowbray Mountain, is named after the cool, mineral-rich waters of North Chickamauga Creek. More a place for locals to cool off in the cold river water than a true climbing destination, it hosts a smattering of high-quality boulders along the riverbed. Blue Hole makes for a cooling diversion for climbers visiting nearby Little Rock City and Leda during the summer months.

Getting there: Take US-27 north from Chattanooga. Exit at Thrasher Pike and turn left. Turn right at Dayton Pike, and left at Montlake Road. In approximately a mile, make a left-hand turn onto a dirt road— park where the road dead-ends. Follow a trail upriver, and climb whatever looks fun.