A multi-pitch 5.13 A0 blast up South Africa’s Blouberg Massif

South Africa has a stormy history filled with metaphorical lightning strikes: apartheid, revolution, poverty-afflicted townships. In fact, for most of the 20th century, the African continent’s southern tip showed the ugly side of humanity. And South Africa certainly didn’t conjure peaceful visions of climbing, either — under apartheid, it was illegal for white and non-white climbers to partner up.

But things have changed, thanks to Nelson Mandela’s 1994 presidential election and the anti-apartheid reign of the African National Congress. Today, this wild nation has become an international beacon for climbers. Recently, on the Blouberg Massif, a 1,200-foot quartzite mesa near SA’s northern border, a major FA played out: Dog of Thunder, a 13-pitch 5.13 A0 envisioned by the South African Charles “Snort” Edelstein, with assistance from Stewart Middlemiss and the talented all-arounder Clinton Martinengo. Their efforts mark a nearly all-free FA of South Africa’s most difficult big wall, one that Edelstein pegs at possibly 5.13d to do single push, all free.

“Blouberg faces north and is bathed in sunlight most of the year,” wrote Edelstein in a trip report (see below for “Snort” full report). The climber invested six attempts over four years (with several partners), drilling rappel-placed bolts in spots; he has five Blouberg FAs to his credit. The cliff’s microclimate, Edelstein wrote, is temperate . . .till the area’s notorious thunderstorms roll in.

On November 24, the team awoke early and rappelled their objective, to stash food, water, and bivy gear, and also to examine the 5.13c/d crux pitches (P7, P9, and P10). After the line went shady at midafternoon, the trio embarked, with massive thunderheads approaching. A quick three pitches led them to the Shattered Ledge, where a nasty electrical storm stymied progress. Then Martinengo (with previous experience on the line) attacked a wet 5.12a ropelength (via headlamp) to a bivy that brought a close to the day’s efforts. The next morning, with conditions perfect, Martinengo attacked the crux leads. The first (P7, the Ningenator) takes mixed bolts
and cams on thin face moves. Martinengo put in two tries on the second (P9, Abraxis in the Sky), lobbing twice off a hard move above the last bolt and leaving the ropelength yet to be freed. And the third (P10) takes a crack and strenuous climbing to a testy undercling move and a punishing final mantel.

Above all this, the team charged up three easier pitches amidst some of the worst lightning they’d ever seen. A few quick rappels to safety, and a monster deluge began in earnest.

“Blouberg is a wild and remote place,” wrote Edelstein. “Even the walk-in is complicated, on poorly defined cattle trails.” He added, however, that the cliff’s compact rock is very user-friendly for traditional climbers, offering excellent nut and cam placements. And, wrote Edelstein, “Once you’re there, Blouberg captures the soul.” —Dan Dewell