Pitch one: A small cam (green sling Alien) protects the start of the layback crux. Look for it in an under-cling slot. A large cam can be placed in the bottom of the lay back and a rock 8 placed side-ways one the left provides good comfort for the mantel move!

Pitch 2: Once one steps left at the base of the pillar and into the recess above the flake there is pro with small cams and also a big cam on the left. The good holds were very slippery on the first ascent due to heat and humidity. There is a bomber tiny cam placement here with the purple sling alien fitting best.

Pitch 3: Watch for rope drag. It is a little run out but safe enough.

Pitch 4: Slippery if humid and hot but good pro except the start. Be careful.

Pitch 5: A bit run out but straightforward.

Pitch 6: Take care on the traverse. Get your bivvy gear across to the stance at the end of the traverse as this is also a rappel point.

Pitch 7: Take Clint or a cheat stick

Pitch 8: If you lead it and you are short there is a bolt at your knees so not too scary. Can probably use rope tension to reach right.

Pitch 9: Take Clint or a cheat stick.

Pitch 10: Same.

Pitch 11: Nice pitch; safe good gear.

Pitch 12: A bit grotty but safe enough

Pitch 13: More grotty but requires some care and also safe enough.

Rappelling: Do not combine the first two pitches; your rope will get stuck. Use a 60m rope doubled for the first two rappels.

The next rappel is overhanging so keep the rope in by placing gear (medium cams) on the way down. This gets you to the stance above pitch 9.

The next rap is sideways and requires directing the rope and clipping to the bolts at the stance at end of pitch 7 and then placing gear on the rail to reach the bolt above the stance below and clipping both ropes to this as well. The last person to rappel unclips the one rope but leaves the other clipped to the leaver biners at the stance above pitch 7 and also the bolt above the stance below. The rope to be clipped is not the pull down rope as the knot won’t feed through the biners.

The next rappel is almost 60m and is a little overhanging. Rappel about 3m and then use a medium cam in the rail to keep the rope in to the wall. Continue to the bolted rappel point about 5m below the shattered ledge.

The next rappel is only about 25m to a bolted stance. Don’t miss it. The last rappel is 55m to the ground.

The bivvy.

The bivvy is very comfy and there are 3 mats there. Don’t throw off any rocks as these can be used to shit on and then thrown off.

One can also bivvy less comfortably on the shattered ledge. The shattered ledge and the main bivvy is protected from rain unless there is very strong wind.

There is a good but exposed bivvy at the end of pitch 11 but it is a bit pointless. Either top out or rap down.

Climb with one torch per person!!