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Dumby Dave

MacLeod on his 2007 sport FA Metalcore (5.14c), a massive roof linkup with its redpoint crux - a dyno - at the lip, Anvil Crag, Scotland.
Photo by Claire MacLeod — davemacleod.com

The Four Sides of Dave MacLeod — First Ascents (and Repeats) from the Razor’s Edge:

Trad

  • Rhapsody (E11 7a): Dumbarton Rock, Scotland; 5.14c on thin wires, 70-foot-fall potential, V11 crux on poor face holds
  • To Hell and Back (E10 6c): Hell’s Lum, Scotland; 5.13c with ground-fall potential from the crux, at 80 feet
  • Blind Vision (E10 7a/b): Froggatt Edge, England; V12/V13 boulder problem to marginally protected 5.13 headwall; MacLeod second ascent
  • Achemine (E9 7a): Dumbarton Rock, Scotland; 5.12 crack climb to 40 feet of unprotected 5.13d face
  • Holdfast (E9 7a): Glen Nevis, Scotland; 5.14- with unprotected crux at 18 feet

Sport

  • Ring of Steall (5.14c): Glen Nevis, Scotland; hyper-technical crux; might be 5.14d
  • Metalcore (5.14c): Anvil Crag, Scotland; huge roof; Scotland’s first 5.14c
  • L’Odi Social (5.14c): Siurana, Spain; limestone stamina; repeat

Bouldering

  • Sanction (V13): Dumbarton Rock, Scotland; highly technical power problem, completed in early 2007
  • Pressure (V13): Dumbarton Rock, Scotland; 45-foot roof
  • Perfect Crime (V13): Dumbarton Rock, Scotland; 80-foot roof with 30 hard moves

Winter

  • The Hurting (XI, 11): Coire an t’Sneachda, Scotland; vertical M9/M10 with very poor protection placed on lead
  • The Cathedral (X, 11): The Cobbler, Scotland; 100-foot roof crack with pro placed on lead
  • Good Training for Something (M12-): Bolted drytooling route at Birnam Quarry, Scotland; FA by Will Gadd



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