Get Shorty - The 5 best miniature sport routes in America

Short Subject (5.11d), School Rock, Donner Summit, California
When Mic Deiro in 1984 toproped this line, not too far above Donner Pass Road, little could he have realized the photo-friendly, tiny testpiece he’d unleashed upon the world. (Richard Leversee, with Deiro’s permission, turned the climb into a three-bolt lead a few years later.) Traversing leftward across a hanging prow/block high on the pass, the climb gives an instant illusion of exposure when viewed through the lens. Its base undercut, the climber hanging butt-to-the-breeze on incut flakes and crimps, Short Subject has as its backdrop alpine Sierra splendor — hillocks and trees, the horizon rolling into the distance. It was named, according to Deiro, after Mark Hudon, the short, talented local hardman.

The Beta? Step off the block. Crimp. Heel hook. Traverse a bit more. Clip. Crux at 20 feet on slightly smaller crimpers. Clip one last time. Mantel. In its 25 feet, Short Subject never lets up. Let’s call it, then, a hard V3 with bolts — the kind you sure as hell wouldn’t want to fall off ropeless, unless you call granite blocks and brush a “landing.” (Although with a good snowpack, says the Tahoe local Eric Perlman, the climb is probably only Zone 1.) Short Subject has been done unroped a handful of times, the first time by Deiro himself, who eventually left behind all climbing when the Good Lord told him he’d soon see young Mic in heaven if he didn’t give up the ropeless shenanigans. If the climb leaves you hungry, you can also plug cracks on the neighboring (and similarly wee) Carl’s Overhang (5.11a hands and fists) or Bimbo Roof (formerly Limbo Roof ), a stout 5.12+.

California Honorable Mention: Brena
(5.13d), Malibu Creek: 5.11 pockets out a cave to a V9 crux; four bolts, 23 feet, but can be extended into the 5.13 Ghetto Blaster to yield Lateralus (5.14a; eight bolts). FA of both variants: Shawn Diamond (who jokes, “At age 18, I had an equivalent volume of endurance for route climbing as I did for sex!”), 2000.