INDEX CLUB

2007 — Green Drag-On, 5.13a or IV, 5.11a, A3; FFA Justen Sjong and Ben Gilkison; FA, Don Harder and Don Heller, 1973
Green Drag-On is a six-pitch route that runs straight up the Upper Town Wall, just right of the historic Davis Holland free route (5.10c, 1964). This aid route, now completely free, is considered to be one of the best on Upper Town Wall. “Green Drag-On combines traditional climbing up to 5.12a with face climbing: little dishes, slopey crimps, bad smears — just sustained, high-angle granite slab climbing,” says Gilkison who freed it with Sjong. Sjong adds, “It’s...very engaging and techie — all you need is a light rack.” Green Drag-on was the second old Index aid route to be freed; Sjong freed the first, Town Crier at 5.12d, the month prior. The ascent of these aid routes, done at a modern, “weekend-warrior” grade — albeit with thin gear, RP-protected 5.12 slab cruxes, and run-out flake climbing — indicates potential for many more free lines on the Upper Town Wall. 

Green Drag-On’s bottom two pitches were first aided by Bruce Albert and Al Givler. Givler was known for his ascents in Icicle Creek Canyon (Givler’s Dome) as well as the FA of the Black Dyke, in Squamish (with Mead Hargis). The full Green Drag-on was aided first by Don Harder and Don Heller in 1973. 

Harder and Heller also FA’ed the ultraclassic and super-popular Godzilla in 1972, a lie-back splitter corner on the Lower Town Wall, uncharacteristically steep for 5.9 granite. Wearing blue suede shoes (Robbins boots) in the pouring rain, Harder and Heller fought hard, slipping and clawing their way up. Topping out and elated to find themselves alive, they stood on the upper ledge, screaming and pounding their chests in victory, hence the route’s name. Sadly, two Green Drag-On first ascentionists died soon after: Heller a few years later while descending Aasgard Pass after completing a route on Dragontail Peak, in the Stuart Range; and Givler in 1975 while descending Peak No. 8440 in British Columbia/Alaska’s Fairweather range.

“Al Givler was one of the most gifted climbers to ever come out of the Northwest,” recalls Harder, who now lives near Donner Summit. “I’m an old duffer, but I still get out and thrash around.” 

Click here to see more photos from Ben Gilkison of climbing at Index.

Angele Sjong, PhD, is an industry consultant specializing in polymers and metallurgy. She lives in Boulder, Colorado, with her husband, Justen Sjong; both are former Index locals. The author gratefully acknowledges Darryl Cramer’s contributions to this article.