The Saber — Southwest Corner (III 5.10a)
The redheaded stepchild of the Cathedral Spires (above), the Saber is still not to be missed — especially if you want to avoid the Petit’s crowds. In fact, since they share the same approach, you can always turn your attention — and your feet — east, toward the Saber. Here, the Southwest Corner is the cleanest choice, and many would argue even easier than the “5.8+” Kor Route to its right. The six-pitch Southwest Corner starts with clean left-facing dihedrals and straight-up cracks, and finishes on a gravity-defying vertical corner that splits the southwest face. The first time I climbed the route I’d become so absorbed in the perfect upper pitches that I forgot about the parties next door on the Petit.

“F—k me!” I yelled to my partner, another woman. “You’re not going to believe it up here.”

“No, f—k me!” echoed a male voice, seemingly right in my ear. (Whoops.)

As it turns out, you can have an entire conversation across the narrow chasm separating the Chamonix-like aiguilles. You can even ask someone out (and get turned down)... without raising your voice.

From 1957 to 1967, the legendary Layton Kor, known for prolific new-routing, bold leads, and fast driving, put up RMNP routes with astonishing alacrity. “Every time I went into the Park, I would have a fistful of other lines to try next time — all before I was done with the route I was on in the first place,” says Kor. The list is long: the second ascent of the Diamond, and first ascents of Yellow Wall, Jack of Diamonds, the Diagonal, Sharkstooth, Chief’s Head, and the Saber. “Back then, there were so many prizes to pick, you couldn’t help but do a first ascent,” Kor told me, before asking how many established lines I thought the Cathedral Spires held. “Around 30,” I answered. He was quiet for a moment, and then piped up: “So that means there’s still more to do, right?”