Ypsilon Mountain — Blitzen Ridge (III 5.4)
Everyone wants to have done the remote Blitzen Ridge, but few actually want to do it. Despite Blitzen’s prominence as the largest peak on the Park’s northern skyline, the Y-Couloir — a snow route up the east face — and Blitzen combined likely see few ascents each year. By the time you arrive at the Spectacle Lakes, you’ll understand why: Ypsilon’s nordwand is, as put so aptly by the longtime Estes local Steve Komito, a wall “more impressive to look at than to touch.”

The 13,514-foot peak itself, nestled deep in the Mummy Range, on the northern edge of RMNP, demands commitment and fitness just to reach the base. If you get lost hereabouts, you’re not likely to be found quickly. In 2005, the ranger Jeff Christensen disappeared off the back of Ypsilon on a solo patrol; his body was recovered a week later. In the 1940s, another unlucky hiker came too close to the edge and slid down the entire north face; rumors of a grave at the base of the nordwand circulate among the faithful, though few have found it.

Blitzen’s approach is six miles, but feels even longer due to the peak’s isolation. Don’t, however, be fooled by the grade — this is alpine 5.4. There is no way out but up, or, rather, sideways. This mile-long ridge — on sometimes-iffy rock — is not a good intro to the Park, but rather a good tick once you’ve earned your lungs, legs, and RMNP chops.

Begin by navigating around, up, and over the Aces — the triangular gendarmes that split the ridge — usually best accomplished with short pitches. After you puzzle through the ledge systems and occasional cracks, the climbing eases and the scrambling begins. The last 1,000 feet —fourth class mixed with a few bouldery sections of fifth — force a casual pace. Check out the nine alpine lakes glistening below, or the Never Summer Range stretching north toward Wyoming. If you hit Blitzen right, in late summer, you can catch the tundra changing to red, and aspen trees to gold. Add the gray and black granite, and crystalline blue lakes, and you have a visual, vertical playground.