To sort Acadia logistics, visit nps.gov/acad or acadia.national-park.com.

Season: Spring through fall. From Memorial Day to Labor Day, Mount Desert Island (MDI) is packed with tourists and the main cliffs are busy.

Getting There: Head for Ellsworth, the crossroads of Downeast Maine, approximately 20 minutes north of MDI.

Camping: Visit barharborinfo.com.

Guide Services: Acadia Mountain Guides: (207) 866-7562, acadiamountainguides.com; Atlantic Climbing School: (207) 288-2521, climbacadia.com.

Recommended Routes:

Otter Cliff: Wonder Wall (5.6-5.7) — 60 feet of vertical buckets directly above the sea.

Precipice: Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+) — a beautiful two/three-pitch crack system looking out to sea.

Great Head: Head Arête (5.10c) — at low tide, perhaps the most classic lead in all of Maine. Mixed bolts and trad with hand jams out a roof and a tricky face crux.

Eagle Crag: Determined Vermin (5.10d) — a classic sandbag. If you like your fingers attached to your hand, try not to blow the opening move.
Canada Cliff: House of Detention (5.11d) — one of the only sport routes on the island and the premier route at this quiet, excellent crag.

—MS

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