How important is grading, really?
In the world of climbing, grading is utterly essential ­— everyone relies on it, really. It’s cool to say that grades don’t matter and it’s the climbing that counts. For sure that’s true, but people like to test themselves and get the sort of test they want. Used as a guide, grades are great. Grades become a problem when they become the point of climbing, when the grade becomes bigger than the climb itself. It doesn’t necessarily matter how hard a route is but sometimes it’s nice to know how hard other people think it is.

Three 9a first ascents in England – has anyone else put any time into these routes? What does it take to succeed on a hardest sport climb in a country where the weather is stacked against you?
Of my 9’s, the only one that has been seriously tried is Northern Lights, by Ben Moon and Malcolm Smith before I did it. At the moment no one is interested — bouldering is king in Britain these days.

Hard sport climbing is tough work, one of the hardest disciplines. Once a project becomes long term there are so many things stacked against you: weather, conditions, keeping in shape, injury, getting climbing partners…. Even if you get a good run of weather for a whole season you’re only talking 12 weeks or so. Maybe with work you’ll manage a day a week; knock off a few for being out of shape or hung over, and a few more because of life stuff, and suddenly your window for a whole year looks pretty small.

Being on one route that ends up taking YEARS isn’t for everyone! But there’s something special about pushing yourself right out there, trying something you think you might not actually be able to do. I couldn’t let that be the only part of the game. In fact, I never saw myself getting involved, but big projects are a great experience. They motivate me to become a better climber.