The Other Thailand

Chiang Mai 411

Climbing:
A 70-meter rope is ideal. Crazy Horse divides into 15 cliffs, most dispersed enough to offer seclusion. The newest, the 18-route Jai (“heart” in Thai) Wall, is undergoing significant development, with the goal of adding another 15 climbs. Morris sees room for at least another 120 routes throughout Crazy Horse, with great potential for 5.14s.

Crazy Horse also houses an unknown number of massive, multi-chambered caves — great escapes from the heat. Routes that require a headlamp, even midday, have become more common as new caves are discovered. Still, overall Crazy Horse’s climbs tend toward moderate, and at any grade up to 5.12 you’ll find plenty of routes well worth your time. Also, keep your eyes out for Black and Diamond, the two charming crag dogs.

Getting There:
Fly into Chiang Mai International Airport (airport code CNX). China Air offers direct flights from Taiwan to CNX for about $1,000.

Accommodations: Camping at Crazy Horse is discouraged, but Chiang Mai has plenty of great options ranging from $5 to $30 per night. A few favorites are The Golden Fern, Same Same Guesthouse, and Nuan Pranee House.

Season:
November through January.

Guidebook:
A Guide to Rock Climbing in Northern Thailand, by Josh Morris and Khaetthaleeya Uppakham ($24.95; sharpendbooks.com, 2004); second edition due September 2010.

Guide Services:
Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures, thailandclimbing.com; The Peak Adventure Tour, thepeakadventure.com

Not-to-Miss Routes:
•Fire in the Mind (5.10b): Bountiful jugs up an exposed, golden headwall.
•Magic Drop (5.10d): One of Crazy Horse’s first routes, this technical and consistent climb ascends an aesthetic, under-vertical black slab.
•Flushed (5.11a): This super-long, engaging climb leads to a sustained, no-holds chimney.
•Blood, Love and Steel (5.11b): This rope-stretching slab morphs into a slightly overhanging jugfest. •Tree Surgeon (5.11b): Pumpy, steep, and extremely fun on tufa pinches.
•Intensify (5.12b): A thuggish start launches you into an endless, pumpy grey wall.
•Space Maneuvers (5.12b): Three very exposed pitches out an immense limestone cave, leaving 300 feet of darkness under your butt — unreal!