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The King Of Kings


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Sharma bouldering in Venezuela.
Photo by Brett Lowell courtesy of reelrocktour.com

After Realization, you weren’t really tethered to anything. You wrote that you were considering giving up climbing. If you weren’t climbing, what would you be doing?
At that time, when I wrote that article, I was intensely focused on Eastern philosophy and meditation. I was contemplating these material achievements. I was wondering what the point was. Climbing a rock – what’s the big deal? I hadn’t experienced a lot of other things in life. Part of me wanted to experience something else. To try other things. 

For me now, I feel that climbing is a part of who I am. It’s my way of life. It’s my way of expressing myself. My way of being in the world. In the past, I questioned it a lot. Now it’s obvious. This is who I am. This what I do. I’m much more aware of that now. I think about how fortunate I am to be supported by all these companies and in reality the climbing community that supports those companies. I feel so fortunate to be supported by everybody to live this life, to travel around the world and to try and raise the standard of climbing. I feel very confident in my path through life, but in the past, yeah, when I climbed Realization it was a high moment I had to work really hard to work for and it felt like there wasn’t anything else. Actually, climbing is never-ending thing. There is always ways to evolve with it. There is always going to be something harder.

At what point does a climb become too hard? At what point does it become impossible?
Well, take the route that I just bolted in Ceüse that I said was too hard. There were six moves in a row that I could just barely hold onto. I could only take my weight off the rope for a second or two. For six moves, it was like that. I could say that it was too hard for me, but I can hang off all the holds, so theoretically if I can hang onto the holds, I should be able to move off of them. It’s possibility. Maybe not for me, but Realization was bolted 15 years before I did it and it’s possible. Maybe in 15 years, some little kid will come up to that route and climb. It will be the next level. Maybe 5.16. I don’t know. 

Basically, that’s the limit. You have to at least be able to hang onto the holds. There has to be enough hold, to hold hang onto. If it’s a V14 to V14 to another V14 it’s possible. It’s just a matter of time before someone links it. Maybe not in my time. 



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