Climbing
OFF THE WALL 2
Climbing "Player" Profile: Justin Jaeger - VOLUME 1 - SEPTEMBER, 2006

One of the many unnamed Jim Belcer problems at RMNP…this one being on the Whispers boulder at Emerald Lake.
Photo by Elliot Morris

How long have you been climbing?
Since February 1999. 

Where did you first start?
During undergrad, I did a semester abroad at the University of Auckland, New Zealand.  At first, my singular objective was to surf every free moment I had.  I had just caught my first waves the prior spring and was psyched.  I trolled the Auckland backpacker hostels for ads and bought the first board I saw, which turned out to be way too small even for me.  Regardless, I studied the city bus schedules and started making commando missions out to area beaches looking for decent surf.  When I finally found what I was looking for, I immediately realized I was not prepared in the least. I spent a couple sessions getting dragged around by the riptides, trying to avoid shredding myself on the sharp craggy formations that guarded the boundaries of the beach at Piha. I never even got out to the lineup after a few days of paddling around.  The more mellow beaches were extremely fickle and were usually too flat to even paddle out. After about a week and a half of failed surfing schemes, my climber roommates invited me to go along on a cragging trip.  Behind a grammar school in Auckland lies an old stone quarry that is open to the public.  They, Mark Drucker and Seth Dee, put me on a toprope and let me clamber up some positive edges. I knew immediately that it was what I wanted to do from there on out and that any other sport was a waste of time and money.  It took about two days to spend my entire ‘fun’ budget on gear... [in only the best and brightest fluorescent colors]. 

Dark Horse…a somewhat obscure Jade Whitney/Mike Hickey line involving powerful tension and crimping until a high crux heel/hand match to lock off huge to the top.  Bit scary landing, but totally classic.
Photo by Scott Neel

What discipline of climbing?
My wool is dyed for bouldering.  The guys who got me into climbing in New Zealand were completely preoccupied with alpine trad and trad cragging, so it took me a year or so to discover the real path for me…  One of my most common gripes is that when in New Zealand, we got an offer to have a tour and FA session at a then newer area called Castle Hill, in the south island.  When my friends heard it was "only" bouldering, they declined and did some mossy alpine route instead.  I was out of the loop entirely, then and didn’t get to pull on any stone for our break.  It wasn’t until I worked around Buffalo, New York after graduating that I was introduced to full-bore bouldering by the Buffalo and Toronto crews… I’m deeply indebted…

I guess somewhere in the rope management and endless belaying of trad climbing and the scene that typically gravitates to sport climbing, I lost the fun in those disciplines.  For me, bouldering is relatively purified from a bit of the bullshit and hassle in climbing and distills the intensity and fun. 



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