Climbing
OFF THE WALL 2
Climbing "Player" Profile: Justin Jaeger - VOLUME 1 - SEPTEMBER, 2006

Due to rickety knees and weakness, Canopener has been my nemesis climb for four years. I’ve done every move a bazillion times… I’m psyched for the fall, though, as Ryan Olson just showed me some new beta to skip the tendon wrecking heel/toe lock I had previously been forced to use…it also reduces the reach, which is also wicked.
Photo by Amy Ferguson

Where do you live now and what area do you go to the most?
I live in Parker, Colorado — about a half-hour south and east of Denver.  And what you’re trolling for me to say is that I climb at Castlewood Canyon, aka Crumblehood, the most. 

Why?
I live really close to Castlewood and I really enjoy climbing there after work and early in the morning on weekends when I can’t get out to other areas.  The place gets a bad rap due to the adversarial wildlife, evil bushwhacking, and festering piles of choss.  Still, I’ve found that if you climb for the love of movement, there are some absolutely amazing lines to be found in the canyon ... the vast majority of the fools I talk into sessioning with me will gladly return. 

Climbing chose you as a “player” in the world of climbing because of your 8a.nu scorecard; and, because of all the people I’ve met you are the most psyched climber I know — more so than Dave Graham (a person most often referred to as THE most motivated climber in the world). How many V7s have you done in the last three years?
My spraysheet, eh?  I haven’t done any thorough accounting, but I can say that the cumulative V7 count is over 300, currently, keeping in mind, however, that the uprating and downrating I do corrupts any formal count.  My goal is to send over 1,000 problems V7 and up, which I’m happy to be just over the half-way mark on.  Admittedly, very few are in the double digit range, which is somewhat embarrassing to me when I think of how many of my friends are just killing the hard stuff lately.  My mentality is very much like that expressed by Boone Speed in “Best of the West” — my favorite days are those when I go out and do a handful of new 7s, 8s, and 9s. I would like to do every 7, 8, and 9 in Colorado, ( ... and Vedauwoo, WY; Black Hills, SD; Niagara Glen, Ont; and Joe’s Valley, UT), but I also would like to really concentrate on some hard lines at some point ... it’s just really difficult for me to have a day of complete failure on a "sick" project when so many lines are waiting, undone. 

Bodacious -- This is another Whitney/Hickey/Essen[?] problem, just left of Dark Horse, that almost shattered my ego for life.
Photo Mike Hickey


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