Do you think indoor climbing will ever gain the respect that bouldering has now? Why and when? I think in a few years, once we get a series going, I mean larger than ABS. Something like PCA. Coming to a city near you: pros, cash, prizes ... but that may not happen for a while. I think when it comes to that, it will gain a huge respect as a professional sport.
Can one be a strong boulderer and strong sport climber easily? If so, how? I think it's very possible, maybe not easy. Good examples are Dave [Graham] or Daniel [Woods]. They have the power to change from routes one week and climb at their max, and the next they are back on boulders climbing at their max. It must have something to do with psyche and motivation. They also know how to climb on rock very well. Adapting is easy for them.
Do you train? How often? I usually train six days a week, four to five days climbing, and a day of running hard or something like that.
Does your training for bouldering differ from your training for sport climbing? Sometimes. I do a lot of the same exercises and stuff for both. For example, I may train power-endurance by bouldering for three hours without stopping. It forces you to do hard moves while very tired and pumped. Or I may train routes to get stronger for bouldering comps, because you need endurance to climb well by the fourth or fifth problem.
What's a "must do" V10? Power of Silence in Hueco is one of my favorites.
The Temple
Photo by Honze Fialla
What's the hardest sport climb you've done? This route 7 p.m. Show or Lungfish. Lungfish is rated harder, but I did it first try, second day. So, I didn’t put as much effort into it as I did 7 p.m. Show. That route really taught me a lot about climbing. I first tried it in 2004, then in 2005 I came close, and in 2006 I finally did it. Ha ha! It was epic!
Where's a destination you want to visit, but haven't? I really want to visit France —
all the areas, like Ceüse and the Nice areas. I also would really like to check out Magic Wood, Switzerland.
What do you think of manufacturing? Personally, I really don’t care for it. I would never do it. But I can understand. Sometimes people have to vision something out of shit rock, so they can climb. But I still would never do it.