"Player" Profile: BJ TILDEN

Why do you think there's been so much debate about grading in Hueco? Is it justified?
The grades in Hueco get so much debate because that's where the focus is right now. Wherever has the most people is going to have the most discussion. It is justified to some extent to try to reach a consensus, but people take it way too seriously. Grades are a suggestion or a guideline, but they aren't absolute law. A boulder problem is a little different for every person who climbs it. There will always be different ideas on what it is rated. It's certainly not a bad thing to care how hard something is, but try to appreciate the experience on a more personal level, rather than stressing about what number you can put on it. 

What's the best sport-climbing crag in the United States?
It's hard to say because there are a lot of places that I've never been, but I will say that I am pretty impressed with Rifle, Colorado. For bouldering, it's hard to imagine any place topping Hueco, restrictions aside. The quality of the rock, diversity of features, and amount of cool boulder problems is truly unique. 

Do you train?
I just try to climb as much as possible. In the winter I go to the gym three times a week, but nothing too structured. Mostly just bouldering around. 

Do you diet?
I definitely don't diet. I just let my body weigh what it wants. I have friends that used to diet for climbing and they all got stronger when they stopped dieting. 

How many seasons have you gone to Hueco? What's your longest stay?
I was in Hueco for two months in 2005 on my first trip; one month last year; and I will be there for three weeks this year It seems like three to five weeks is about the max before I really start to go downhill. That place is punishing. 

What's it like living at the Hueco Rock Ranch for so long?
It's fun staying at the Rock Ranch for that long; you really settle into life at that pace. The rest days are the hardest part. At first it's cool to just sit in the desert and chill out, but after a while the boredom starts to override the novelty of having nothing to do.