Climbing
OFF THE WALL 2
JAMIE EMERSON - Player Profile, March 2007


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JE on the Full Monty, Hueco Tanks, Texas.
Photo by Wade David

Is Jamie Emerson a climber or a boulderer?
Boulderer is a label, but what I do is climb on rocks. I see no difference. It's funny when traditional climbers say things like “he’s just a boulderer” or “bouldering is just practiced climbing.” I see no distinction. Practice makes perfect.

What's the most important skill to have, as a boulderer?
There are so many things that can make someone a good boulderer. I think that one of the best skills to have is being well-rounded. It is sick to be a master at a certain level. It's like being a wizard! It is certainly impressive if someone climbs a V12, but I am more impressed by someone that can go to any area and climb at that level on all kinds of rock and in all styles.

How have you approached your own climbing to reflect this philosophy?
When I think about what my next projects are going to be, this is a big part of it. I think it is awesome to be able to say that I’ve climbed 8A [V11] on sandstone, granite, gneiss, etc., and in all different styles (i.e., pockets, crimps, arêtes, roofs, slopers, etc.). When I travel it just opens up my options to climb as many amazing problems as possible. Of course, I will do things that fit me, but I think I have developed more as a climber by trying things that don’t fit my style. Climbing is really an art for me so I feel like I want to express myself in as many mediums as I possibly can. Traveling is essential to this.

Who are world class climbers today?
Obviously, climbing has become very specialized in today, so I will only talk about boulderers. We are really talking about a handful of people that are setting the standard. I think that Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Dai Koyomada, Fred Nicole, and perhaps John Gaskins fall into this category. Daniel Woods is there, too, and I think in the next year he will have a chance to show the world.

Photo by Ryan Olson

What does "world class climber" mean to you?
I was in Hueco last year and this question was posed to a group of climbers from around the country. I was hearing things like “world class climbing is climbing V13 and flashing V10.” I was totally blown away. I have done both, and I would never consider myself a world class climber. People have been climbing V13 for 10 years!!! There are three arenas in which boulderers can showcase their talents: the flash, one day of climbing, or a long project. I think a true V13 flash would qualify, as Chris Sharma almost did on Nagual and Dave almost did on Slashface. In one day, it seems that a world class climber could climb proper V14. Both Dave Graham and Daniel Woods have done this in Hueco. I think that with work, a strong climber could climb V15 in one day. I think Fred Nicole fits into the category for his ability to put up super hard things with work, such as Amandla or Terremer.



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