Climbing
OFF THE WALL 2
JAMIE EMERSON - Player Profile, March 2007

Photo by Wade David

Name a place you want to go to that you haven't gone yet?
I really want to go to Switzerland. The scenery looks amazing!!! I love bouldering in the mountains. Gneiss bouldering seems to exemplify this perfect mix of power and technique. I love that style of climbing, and it seems like this is what Swizzy is all about.

You've set routes for some pretty large-scale competitions, right?
I have been at most of the biggest comps in America, in the last four years. All of the ABS Nationals, a few PCAs, TEVA Mountain Games.

 What makes you a better route-setter than Average Joe?
Experience. Competition setting is much different than day-to-day setting. I have set hundreds of comp problems, and I really think I know what works and what doesn’t. I think it helps to not have an ego when it comes to your routes, which is a mistake a lot setters fall into. As a setter, you have to be willing to change your routes for the betterment of the competition.


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Photo by Ryan Olson

What area doesn’t get much attention that you are really psyched on?
I am really psyched about the South. The rock is so good, and the people are so friendly! The woods are amazing down there. I think among strong climbers, there is the opinion that there aren’t hard problems down there, and so they aren’t interested in going. That’s too bad, because the climbing is so amazing! It's too bad there is so much emphasis placed on climbing problems with big numbers attached to them, because people miss out on rad areas. I don’t understand that.

What's the best V8 in the country?
Well, here are some of the areas I have been to: Yosemite, Squamish, Bishop, Hueco, So-Ill, Rocktown, HP40, Joe's, Ibex, and LCC. There are so many great problems at every area I’ve been to, but I haven’t been everywhere so I’ll just mention some problems — one from Colorado and one from somewhere else — that stand out in my head. The Nothing at Mount Evans, CO: 30 feet tall, proud, and an amazing setting. This could be the best V8 in the country.

At Joe’s Valley there is a new problem called The Wind Beneath. So good and tall!

The best V10?
Whispers of Wisdom at Emerald Lake. Gorgeous. Sick overhang to a 40-foot slab. Perfect rock. This is the best V10 in Colorado, and as soon as it gets warm enough I am psyched to go finish this boulder. To those who haven’t topped out, but claim the ascent, I offer them a bowl of Invalid Salad! I recently went to Rocktown, and I climbed this incredible V10 called Golden Harvest. Joel Brady climbs it in the special features of Sessions. Perfect Sandstone! I love the South! God Module is incredible as well, but maybe that is V11. Those problems are just sick!!!

How about the best V12?
Riddles in the Park is really cool. What an amazing line! I found this problem early this year, had the vision, and chalked and cleaned it. I did a cool stand start and then the snow melted and lower holds were found and I haven’t gone back to get the sit start yet. Also No More Greener Grass! So classic. For sure the best hard problem at Mount Evans. I'm not sure if they call Michael Jordan in So-Ill V12 or not, but that thing is ridiculous. Nice job on that one, Gomez [Luke Parady]. Not to mention Full Monty, the Dominator ... the list goes on and on.



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