Where are you from originally? I’m proud to say I’m a Salt Lake City local.
How old are you? A young, energetic, good looking, highly motivated, totally full of shit 31-year-old!
What's your favorite sport climb in America? I have a ton of favorites, but the ones that stand out the most are the ones I get to share with my friends. It is always more exciting to send a route together or to share an accomplishment with someone you care about.
How many 5.14s have you redpointed? I guess it all depends on who you talk to or which guide you want to trust. If I had to take a poll some would say around 16 others might say 10. Either way all of them were good excuses to hang out with my family, my friends, and Gwen.
What's your favorite climbing spot? I hate to say it, but I love Joshua Tree. It is a great place to hang (when the wind’s not blowing). You can belay out of your tent if you're lazy, and the sun sets are amazing!
What do you do to pay the bills? Sell my body, Ha! Until I find a bidder I will continue to be the Outside Sales Manager at Liberty Mountain.
Married? Have kids? I look forward to it but not just yet!
Photo by Andrew Burr
What do you do for fun? Lately, I have to find entertainment while working because my boss is a slave driver. Just kidding. Normally, in the winter, you can find me skiing in the Wasatch or climbing in southern Utah. During the summer: climbing, cycling, and the occasional kayak trip keep me psyched.
Do you intentionally stay off the radar, or is that a matter of circumstance? I guess no one ever invited me to get on the radar! Seriously I have grown up climbing in Salt Lake City, and I have always been surrounded by talented climbers sending stellar lines. I’m proud and even look up to some of those guys on the radar. For the most part they are in another class. All in all outrageous looks, agents, entourages, film crews, and the rest of the radar necessities never really became part of our day! My friends and I climb because we love the sport; we love to improve, and more importantly, we love to be there for each other! A day climbing with my friends is much more than just climbing!
What is the best sport route in the country, in your opinion (gotta pick one!)
At one point, I may have said T-Rex in Maple. Long, Steeeeeep, great holds and fairly gymnastic. Although last year a few guys found about 30 extra knee bars and scums I didn’t use. I would have used them if I saw them but no luck. Now I will probably default to Perfect Child. It’s long with delicate moves in a beautiful setting.
What is your opinion on manufacturing? I’m not into it! I have climbed some good manufactured routes, but I definitely haven’t sculpted any!
Photo by Andrew Burr
Explain the dilemma of what constitutes necessary cleaning on a new route vs. aggressive cleaning vs. manufacturing?
It’s a thin line in some areas like Maple and American Fork. In a cave like the Pipedream you really need to be aggressive to remove loose stones. On any given weekend you could see 30 people and 20 dogs inside the cave. Loose holds can make for a very scary situation. Ask Guy about his tent he set up this year in the cave! It really seems to depend on the area. As for manufacturing, I believe drilling and gluing on holds is unethical. We have seen and will continue to see a newer, stronger, and better climber. Who is to say what they will be able to do in the future? I mean how many people have done 5.15a? When I look at 5.15a, I feel like a brand new climber wondering how in the hell did they get the rope up there!
What about glue? Is it necessary, in your opinion? I have seen a lot of holds break the last few seasons on some classic routes. If someone can do a good job reattaching the hold I’m ok with that. Then, on the other hand, if the route still goes at a similar grade why not leave it off.
Do you boulder? Yeah, I practice! I’m really no good at bouldering, but I do enjoy it. I live about three minutes from the Secret Garden in Little Cottonwood Canyon, so I can’t really avoid it.
Photo by Andrew Burr
How would you describe the "average" climber? Average is relative to the location and the people who surround you. In places like SLC, Boulder, So Cal, and other places with great gyms and local climbing it seems like the average person climbs at least V7 and 5.12!
How has this person changed in the last ten years? Ten years ago, there was one gym in SLC to hone your skills. Now the average climber can choose from two guide services, three gyms, and at least six recreation centers. The average climber has better gear and more places to use it inside and outside.
What's the best city to live in if you're a sport-climber? That’s a bit of a loaded question. You know I have to choose SLC being a local boy. Here’s why in terms of location alone
LCC: Great trad and bouldering on solid granite 2 minutes from my house
BCC: descent trad and sport on good quartzite 10 minutes
American Fork: (Yes this is a benefit) Good limestone 38 minutes
Maple: Great conglomerate 1 hour 45 minutes
I didn’t even mention all the great places that are anywhere from a 3-6 hour drive.
Is it possible to avoid ego as a climber? If so, how? Everyone will have days that make them feel like a super hero. You may send a hard problem, onsight a tricky route, or send the sick pink problem in the cave at your local gym. Either way there is always going to be someone better. Maybe not all the time, but every once in a while some punk kid that you’ve never seen at the “cool” gym will leave his recreation center and come visit your boulder, route, or taped problem. He or she will walk up send your precocious crux and politely walk away leaving you amazed asking yourself, “Who the hell was that?” If you can realize there will always be someone better, there is no need to carry an ego. Climbing is about feeling the movement, the camaraderie, and the love. It’s not meant to be food for the ego! Climb for yourself, support your friends, and take care of all the areas where you climb. That should suppress the ego!
Aside from climbing and enjoying the outdoors, what do you see that we all have in common? The majority of us love something. We may not always revile our love, but it’s there. For me Love is the driving force of life whether it be for my girlfriend, family, friends, or climbing!
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