Explain the dilemma of what constitutes necessary cleaning on a new route vs. aggressive cleaning vs. manufacturing?
It’s a thin line in some areas like Maple and American Fork. In a cave like the Pipedream you really need to be aggressive to remove loose stones. On any given weekend you could see 30 people and 20 dogs inside the cave. Loose holds can make for a very scary situation. Ask Guy about his tent he set up this year in the cave! It really seems to depend on the area. As for manufacturing, I believe drilling and gluing on holds is unethical. We have seen and will continue to see a newer, stronger, and better climber. Who is to say what they will be able to do in the future? I mean how many people have done 5.15a?  When I look at 5.15a, I feel like a brand new climber wondering how in the hell did they get the rope up there! 

What about glue? Is it necessary, in your opinion?
I have seen a lot of holds break the last few seasons on some classic routes. If someone can do a good job reattaching the hold I’m ok with that. Then, on the other hand, if the route still goes at a similar grade why not leave it off. 

Do you boulder?
Yeah, I practice! I’m really no good at bouldering, but I do enjoy it. I live about three minutes from the Secret Garden in Little Cottonwood Canyon, so I can’t really avoid it.