The first day climbing it was freezing cold, the dead inverse of Spain. I worked out the moves one try, thought I would blow all my tendons, and said, oh no. STEP! This is way harder then I remembered! The next day, and the next try, with extreme freezing conditions as well, I linked to the upper crux, and was shocked, it all the sudden, felt easier then I remembered. This began the strange cycle of “how it felt” every other try. I made attempts for the next three weeks, mostly two a day, going two days on one day off, and every time, it was something new. 

As Ethan and I started trying more ritualistically, we became confused. Not pumped, and feeling strong in the bottom, but weak shit in the crux, strong as shit in the crux then weak like never before in the bottom, I declared ignorance to understanding anything, and attempted to analyze and think about what was going as little as possible. This is very hard for me to pull off. Finally, at the end of the three weeks, I randomly decided that the beta [what Ethan and Chris was doing] sucked for me. I never felt strong doing it, and it felt "proper awkward" ... so thank god for the nature of rock, I grabbed a strange gaston, which is always looked at but never crimped, due to the fact it gnarly... and did my old school wicked 2003 beta, and busted through the upper crux, the first time I tried the beta from the ground! Shepadang! 

After a rest day, I fell off three times on the crux move, which was kinda discouraging, then after another rest day, fired it off the first try with some kick ass conditions. It’s been a month, so i'm less excited naturally about the send, but it was f&*kin' great! It felt so good to do that route, and it was so fun, and enjoyable, and within reason, and resistant, it got me really psyched on life and climbing. Massive props and a huge Gracias go out to Layla for belaying my ass all the time, and dealing with my lack of self belief (until the moment I actually did it, I wasn’t sure whether I could it or not in the seven days I had left, some serious mental blocks stuff!) and everyone else who had do deal with my ramblings about the beta. Never, had I thought it would work so easily. It wasn’t like I just showed up and climbed it, but at least it didn’t take me three more years or something crazy. Renewed confidence is all I can say.