Climbing
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Dave Graham - Pro Blog 8

Esclatamasters.

We have been doing some bouldering when the weather sucks, which has been really fun, finding really cool new places with only nice black Joe's Valley sandstone. Pretty crazy. The route scene has been just mad. Previously freezing and too cold for a week, then hot, and too warm for another week, then fog, then wind the blah, and blah and blah. The conditions have been strenuous but we have been climbing on the best of the best, at least.

I am currently very excited to do Esclatamasters, a beautiful 9a [5.14d], which I have now tried five times, and just need to grow skin for the nasty headwall filled with little sharp, skin-fucking crimpers (cursed little grips). At least the bottom of the route is 25 meters of burly collenette pulling out a crazy prow, which is blue, and very steep! In-between my rare attempts on this badass route, I climbed two other five star vias. These routes are the most bonita and guappa routes I can find in the region, and they happen to be blazing in the sun most of the day, which was perfect. Los Humildes pa Casa, which means the humble stay at home, and it is incredible!

New problems at Chopos.

Situated in the middle of a huge 70-meter wall, the line starts on some pocketed brown rock, and quickly leads to a blue streak. The blue streak turns into a huge, fat collonette, and goes for 30 meters until the anchor! You climb on the lone tufa, switching off little knee-bars and heel-hooks, all the time squeezing and pinching, desperately using every last drop of resistance you have, until eventually there is a second tufa! This brings on the never ending drop-knees, and layback moves leading to one brutal little slab passito before the anchor, when the tufa actually stops, where you can fall, and when you fall on this route you fall big, with bolts skipped its at least a 15-20 meter fall! I climbed on my second try, which is a big deal for me, as it’s my anti-style, and my new favorite route I have ever done on limestone.




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