January 8, 2007

Ah yes, back to my life on the rocks. The day before yesterday was my first full day of outside sport climbing in over three weeks. It's a good thing, too, because I was beginning to lose motivation after taking such a long break from real climbing. But after Saturday, I'm psyched again. 

Audrey, Karl, Natasha, and I went to Pinnacles for the day and for those of you who have never been there or seen pictures, it's a little like climbing big piles, or pinnacles of petrified mud. Imagine maple canyon, but the formations aren't caves, it's not nearly as steep or sandy, and the cobles aren't nearly as big. The cobles that break don't leave nice huecos, they just break in half leaving sharp little chicken heads, but the rock is surprisingly strong and the routes surprisingly fun. 

Going back to the Pinnacles was a bit nostalgic for me since it was the first place I ever sport climbed outside. We climbed on the most popular wall, the Monolith, which has a handful of classics including P.O.D. (Post Orgasmic Depression) and Foreplay, which we warmed up on. Another 5.10+ warm up, Hawaiian Noises, that I led sans stick-clip, had the first bolt about 35 feet up, and by the time you clip the second your about three-fourths up the route. 

Unfortunately, a few rusty bolts at Pinnacles have been known to snap off under about five pounds of pressure (as the first bolt of Hawaiian Noises did before it was replaced), some sketchy-to-protect cracks could use bolts, and rap-bolting could be allowed to make some routes safer, and make new routes. These conditions might be the result of regulars' preference to keep Pinnacles' reputation as a "traditional" area instead of the sport crag that it actually is. Oh well ... it keeps down the crowds — wait, no it doesn't. 

Anyway I ended up sending a crimpy 5.13d/14a arête called Übermensch, originally climbed by Sharma back in, like, 1997 (Masters of Stone 4 anyone?). The route is pretty painful but the moves flow surprisingly well, and I was pretty psyched to do it at the last light of the day after falling painfully close to the top on my second try of the day. On the way home we played a fun game that I would recommend to anyone who is bored, stuck in a car, driving past a lot of street signs with interesting names. For instance at the corner of Polk and Bush one might say, "You know, when we get home I might just have to 'Polk' your 'Bush.'" And then that person might respond with something like "Well, I might just have to 'Broderick' your 'South Van Ness' right here and now." And then, someone up in the front seat might jump in and say "Both of you better shut up before I 'Portola' your 'Twin Peaks.'" It's hours of fun.