Now I am driving from Rodellar, the kingdom of XL-size overhanging routes and medium-size holds, to Margalef the kingdom of all kinds holds.
This emerging rock paradise, especially for those that are looking for a winter climbing location, is in the west part of the Sierra de Montsant, so obviously very close to Montsant climbing area and even to Siurana. Jordi the owner of the refuge sighted in the Margalef little town, will show up and give advice on whatever you need to know about the area. You can combine sunny or shadey cliffs, long or short, bouldery overhangs or stamina ones, roofs or delicate face routes, all of these in an area that will amaze you — unless you get impressed by the gigas of rocks that mother nature leaves us to catch our climbing illusions. I tried to enjoy climbing in onsight style and I think I did it, and as a resume of updates...
I onsighted in one single day: Twist as Lola (8a) Pollastre de Granja (8a) Sativa Patatica (8a)
The next days I flashed Dr.Feelgood (8a).
I onsighted these too: Laura (8a)
right of Esaú (8a+) El Vuité Art (8a+)
Photo by Rikar Otegi
As a rest day, one day, I tried from 7c+ to 8a+, of course, including a hard 8b+. I must confess that that day I felt delightful coming out of the bakery in the morning...
I always say, “Positive thinking! These falls are only circumstantial! I can't fall lower... from here to the stars I am a rocket!"
Again, I must confess that these days are what give real value to the good and not so often successful climbing days!