Later that afternoon, back on the mainland, I wandered over to the sea cliffs, made up of stunning dark black sandstone and soloed 20 routes up to 5.11. My final route was a long overhanging face climb of tiny edges with heel hooks 200 feet in the air, and finished at the edge of a lush green pasture, with the sun setting behind me in a colorful bed of clouds. It was two hours past closing time for the kitchens, but Con convinced the folks we were staying with to save a meal, and what a meal it was! A massive slab of fresh salmon was followed by a plate of steamed vegetables, potatoes, and a bowl of apple crumble with home made ice cream bigger than my backpack — of which I ate every bite and felt hungry for more. Guinness and wine with a couple whiskeys satisfied the rest of my appetite in the ensuing craic (“party”).

The following day brought me to one of my favorite climbing areas on the planet — the great sea cliffs of Ailladie. This limestone wall is on the edge of an area known as the Burren. Miles of limestone stretch as far as the eyes can see, and only the purest of ethics are adhered to.

Ailladie itself is a wall that stands more than a 100 feet tall in spots, and the Atlantic Ocean regularly scours clean, with waves washing over the top every winter. I spent the next couple days meeting with new friends and old, sharing pints and soloing quite a bit, including a 5.13a that might be a brand new line according to the local guidebook author.