Climbing
TALL TALES
Front on, Fronters

The warm ups.
Photo by Zach Alberts

Hmmm. Does this sound like you? If not, well, you're a liar. You know who you are. You're the liar-guy or -girl. I believe the kids would say that your pants are currently on fire. And yes, girls front just as bad (and climb just as hard).  I was driving through the canyon one rest day (sorry fronters, I have to rest sometimes... I believe I heard the term "sandinvaginitis" when I was there... ouch) and this gal was in the middle of the road filming her friend standing at the base of the Project Wall. He wasn't even climbing. So there she was in the middle of the road, and she looked at me like I was in her way! I had some nerve driving through her canyon! She begrudgingly moved forward one step so that I was able to drive down into the river to make it past. Okay, maybe I didn't actually drive into the river, but it was close. I barely had room to get by. I think my side mirror might even have brushed up against her neon yellow harness touching her big logoed sponsor draws. So sorry.

The fronters even front their friends! I was talking to one of the stronger climbers in the canyon one night — or I should say listening to him talk to other strong climbers as I was shrinking into the darkness trying not to be noticed as I might be crushed — and he was saying that "even your homies will stare at you if you drive by!" It's a phenomenon where, I guess, if you drive by them it doesn't matter who you are. You could be Sharma, but if you're riding shotgun, you're going to get looked at.

Rifle is an amazing spot. Nowhere in the US will you find such a high concentration of hard, puzzling, steep and quality limestone routes. Check the guide book. You've never seen so many stars. It's like red carpet at the Oscars. Or courtside at a Lakers game. Or rehab. Once you hit 5.12, the majority of the climbs at each grade are three stars. And there are loads of four-star routes as well. I would definitely encourage everyone to check out Rifle. I just spent two months there. (I also spent four years in LA trying to be an actor. I'm honestly not sure where I felt more judged. I’m also not sure who sprays more about representation or accomplishments or sponsors — actors or climbers).

I guess every crag is going to have it's locals who don't want others invading their territory. But come on, there're no Rifle locals. If you're a Rifle local, you're at the Wal-Mart or Cheermeisters. But you fronters live in Boulder or Salt Lake City. You come out to Rifle on the weekends. Front all you want at the gym or American Fork.  But I beg of you... welcome the rest of us to Rifle. Accept us for who we are. We may take your parking spot or campsite, but we are also super psyched to see you climb. And then we tell our friends about it. I would rather come home and spray my friends down with the details of seeing a sick redpoint than tell them "what's-his-name is a huge prick."

Anyway. Climb on, climbers. 

And front on, fronters. I'll see you next year. 

Keep it real!



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