<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>Climbing2004 Rock Climbing Shoe Review</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.climbing.com</link>
	<description>Since 1970</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 12 Dec 2012 23:35:24 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2</generator>
		<item>
		<title>2004 Rock Climbing Shoe Review</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Jun 2012 06:38:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>By Matt Stanley<br>					Photos by Zach Reynolds</dc:creator>
		
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Test Results High-performance sport lace-ups High-performance sport Velcro High-performance sport slippers High-performance edging shoes Evolv Rage, $89 Overall grade: C Target climbs: Slabs, vertical to slightly overhanging face routes Fit: Moderately asymmetric last; medium to wide volume throughout, with a low arch Summary: Slippers traditionally don&#8217;t edge well, but combined a lined synthetic upper [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!-- begin article -->
<div><!--begin paragraph-->
<p><b>The Test Results<br />		<a href="/equipment/231laceup">		High-performance sport lace-ups</a><br />		<a href="/equipment/231velcro">		High-performance sport Velcro</a><br />		<a href="/equipment/231slipper">		High-performance sport slippers<br />		</a><a href="/equipment/231edging">High-performance edging shoes</a></b></p>
<hr noshade>
<p><img src="/equipment/231Evolv-2.jpg" alt="" align="middle" border="0"><br />	<b>	Evolv Rage, $89</b><br />	<b>Overall grade:</b> C<br />	<b>Target climbs:</b> Slabs, vertical to slightly overhanging face routes<br />	<b>Fit:</b> Moderately asymmetric last; medium to wide volume throughout, with a low arch<br />	<b>Summary:</b> Slippers traditionally don&rsquo;t edge well, but combined a lined synthetic upper and a bit of midsole and maybe you could fix that problem. With that in mind, the Evolv Rage offers a different kind of slipper that eschews sensitive smearing in favor of edging power, while still offering the convenience of a slipper. Unfortunately, the result is sub-par. The shoe doesn&rsquo;t deliver the edging performance of the La Sportiva Venom or the Five Ten Anasazi, despite its compromised sensitivity. On vertical and lower-angle faces, it displayed an unnerving tendency to roll off edges instead of standing on them with authority &mdash; testers found that the shoe&rsquo;s upper did not provide enough support to keep the toe box from rotating.</p>
<hr noshade>
<p><img src="/equipment/231Mam-4.jpg" alt="" align="middle" border="0"><br />	<b>	Mammut Blaze Lace Pro, $125</b><br />	<b>Overall grade:</b> A-<br />	<b>Target climbs:</b> Edging on slightly under vertical to slightly overhanging routes<br />	<b>Fit:</b> Moderately asymmetric overall; medium to wide fit overall<br />	<b>Summary:</b> The Mammut Blaze Lace Pro is an excellent edging shoe that flirts with steeper sport-climbing versatility. &ldquo;Most important is to notice that the reference climber for this model is the addicted-but-not-so-hardcore climber,&rdquo; says designer Carsten von Birckhahn. The centerpiece of this shoe is its cupped midsole, that provides a beefy edging platform around the perimeter of the toe box yet still allows for more sensitive smearing under the forefoot. Testers found that the shoe frontpointed well, thanks to its firm, structured toe box, which also helps the shoe perform on turned-out, edgy face routes.<br />			The Blaze Lace Pro&rsquo;s heel cup is a little boxy, lacking a pronounced area for latching hooking holds. The lacing system cinches up well overall, and extends well down the toe box, so you can tighten down on the toes when you need that extra bit of control.</p>
<div align="center">
<p><b><font size="3">2004 Rock Shoe Manufacturers</font></b></p>
<p>	<b><br />
<hr noshade>	</b>
<p><b>Acopa: (510) 262-9581, <a href="http://www.acopausa.com" target="_blank">www.acopausa.com</a><br />			Boreal: (310) 576-9965, <a href="http://www.e-boreal.com" target="_blank">www.e-boreal.com</a><br />			Bufo: (877) 922-5462, <a href="http://www.rockshoes.com" target="_blank">www.rockshoes.com</a><br />			Cava/Liberty Mountain: (888) 902-5462, <a href="http://www.libertymountainclimbing.com" target="_blank">www.libertymountainclimbing.com</a><br />			Evolv: (714) 891-0555, <a href="http://www.evolvesports.com" target="_blank">www.evolvesports.com</a><br />			Five Ten: (909) 798-4222, <a href="http://www.fiveten.com" target="_blank">www.fiveten.com</a><br />			La Sportiva: (303) 443-8710, <a href="http://www.sportiva.com" target="_blank">www.sportiva.com</a><br />			Mad Rock: (503) 797-1952, <a href="http://www.madrockshoes.com" target="_blank">www.madrockshoes.com</a><br />			Mammut/Climb High: (802) 985-5056, <a href="http://www.climbhigh.com" target="_blank">www.climbhigh.com</a><br />			Montrail: (206) 621-9303, <a href="http://www.montrail.com" target="_blank">www.montrail.com</a><br />			Red Chili/Excalibur: (801) 942-8471, <a href="http://www.redchili.de" target="_blank">www.redchili.de</a><br />			Saltic/Bear Adventure: (866) 472-5842, <a href="http://www.salticshoes.com" target="_blank">www.salticshoes.com</a><br />			Scarpa/Black Diamond: (801) 278-5533, <a href="http://www.scarpa-us.com" target="_blank">www.scarpa-us.com</a><br />			Triop/Vertical Addiction: (403) 688-1830, <a href="http://www.vertical-addiction.com" target="_blank">www.vertical-addiction.com</a><br />		</b></p>
</div>
<p><!--end paragraph--></div>
<p>			<!-- hi jon -->	</td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p><!-- End: Ad Container --><br clear="all"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>2004 High-performance edging shoes</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 May 2004 11:53:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>By Matt Stanley<br>					Photos by Zach Reynolds</dc:creator>
		
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/231edging</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Test Results High-performance sport lace-ups High-performance sport Velcro High-performance sport slippers High-performance edging shoes Evolv Rage, $89 Overall grade: C Target climbs: Slabs, vertical to slightly overhanging face routes Fit: Moderately asymmetric last; medium to wide volume throughout, with a low arch Summary: Slippers traditionally don&#8217;t edge well, but combined a lined synthetic upper [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!-- begin article -->
<div><!--begin paragraph-->
<p><b>The Test Results<br />		<a href="/equipment/231laceup">		High-performance sport lace-ups</a><br />		<a href="/equipment/231velcro">		High-performance sport Velcro</a><br />		<a href="/equipment/231slipper">		High-performance sport slippers<br />		</a><a href="/equipment/231edging">High-performance edging shoes</a></b></p>
<hr noshade>
<p><img src="/equipment/231Evolv-2.jpg" alt="" align="middle" border="0"><br />	<b>	Evolv Rage, $89</b><br />	<b>Overall grade:</b> C<br />	<b>Target climbs:</b> Slabs, vertical to slightly overhanging face routes<br />	<b>Fit:</b> Moderately asymmetric last; medium to wide volume throughout, with a low arch<br />	<b>Summary:</b> Slippers traditionally don&rsquo;t edge well, but combined a lined synthetic upper and a bit of midsole and maybe you could fix that problem. With that in mind, the Evolv Rage offers a different kind of slipper that eschews sensitive smearing in favor of edging power, while still offering the convenience of a slipper. Unfortunately, the result is sub-par. The shoe doesn&rsquo;t deliver the edging performance of the La Sportiva Venom or the Five Ten Anasazi, despite its compromised sensitivity. On vertical and lower-angle faces, it displayed an unnerving tendency to roll off edges instead of standing on them with authority &mdash; testers found that the shoe&rsquo;s upper did not provide enough support to keep the toe box from rotating.</p>
<hr noshade>
<p><img src="/equipment/231Mam-4.jpg" alt="" align="middle" border="0"><br />	<b>	Mammut Blaze Lace Pro, $125</b><br />	<b>Overall grade:</b> A-<br />	<b>Target climbs:</b> Edging on slightly under vertical to slightly overhanging routes<br />	<b>Fit:</b> Moderately asymmetric overall; medium to wide fit overall<br />	<b>Summary:</b> The Mammut Blaze Lace Pro is an excellent edging shoe that flirts with steeper sport-climbing versatility. &ldquo;Most important is to notice that the reference climber for this model is the addicted-but-not-so-hardcore climber,&rdquo; says designer Carsten von Birckhahn. The centerpiece of this shoe is its cupped midsole, that provides a beefy edging platform around the perimeter of the toe box yet still allows for more sensitive smearing under the forefoot. Testers found that the shoe frontpointed well, thanks to its firm, structured toe box, which also helps the shoe perform on turned-out, edgy face routes.<br />			The Blaze Lace Pro&rsquo;s heel cup is a little boxy, lacking a pronounced area for latching hooking holds. The lacing system cinches up well overall, and extends well down the toe box, so you can tighten down on the toes when you need that extra bit of control.</p>
<div align="center">
<p><b><font size="3">2004 Rock Shoe Manufacturers</font></b></p>
<p>	<b><br />
<hr noshade>	</b>
<p><b>Acopa: (510) 262-9581, <a href="http://www.acopausa.com" target="_blank">www.acopausa.com</a><br />			Boreal: (310) 576-9965, <a href="http://www.e-boreal.com" target="_blank">www.e-boreal.com</a><br />			Bufo: (877) 922-5462, <a href="http://www.rockshoes.com" target="_blank">www.rockshoes.com</a><br />			Cava/Liberty Mountain: (888) 902-5462, <a href="http://www.libertymountainclimbing.com" target="_blank">www.libertymountainclimbing.com</a><br />			Evolv: (714) 891-0555, <a href="http://www.evolvesports.com" target="_blank">www.evolvesports.com</a><br />			Five Ten: (909) 798-4222, <a href="http://www.fiveten.com" target="_blank">www.fiveten.com</a><br />			La Sportiva: (303) 443-8710, <a href="http://www.sportiva.com" target="_blank">www.sportiva.com</a><br />			Mad Rock: (503) 797-1952, <a href="http://www.madrockshoes.com" target="_blank">www.madrockshoes.com</a><br />			Mammut/Climb High: (802) 985-5056, <a href="http://www.climbhigh.com" target="_blank">www.climbhigh.com</a><br />			Montrail: (206) 621-9303, <a href="http://www.montrail.com" target="_blank">www.montrail.com</a><br />			Red Chili/Excalibur: (801) 942-8471, <a href="http://www.redchili.de" target="_blank">www.redchili.de</a><br />			Saltic/Bear Adventure: (866) 472-5842, <a href="http://www.salticshoes.com" target="_blank">www.salticshoes.com</a><br />			Scarpa/Black Diamond: (801) 278-5533, <a href="http://www.scarpa-us.com" target="_blank">www.scarpa-us.com</a><br />			Triop/Vertical Addiction: (403) 688-1830, <a href="http://www.vertical-addiction.com" target="_blank">www.vertical-addiction.com</a><br />		</b></p>
</div>
<p><!--end paragraph--></div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p><!-- End: Ad Container --><br clear="all"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2004-high-performance-edging-shoes/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>

<!-- Performance optimized by W3 Total Cache. Learn more: http://www.w3-edge.com/wordpress-plugins/

Page Caching using memcached
Database Caching 146/156 queries in 0.111 seconds using memcached
Object Caching 785/803 objects using memcached
Content Delivery Network via Amazon Web Services: S3: static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com

Served from: www.climbing.com @ 2012-12-13 03:43:43 --