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	<title>Climbing2012 Gear Guide: Alpine Gear</title>
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		<title>2012 Gear Guide: Alpine Gear</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2012-gear-guide-alpine-gear/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/gear/2012-gear-guide-alpine-gear/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 May 2012 11:33:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[EDITORS&#8217; CHOICE Salewa Pro Guide $499; salewa.us When Salewa revealed stiff-soled climbing boots that loosen up for walking with a simple adjustment, people slapped their heads and said, “Why didn’t I think of that?” But would they really work? Our main tester, a Rainier guide, used these boots on his home mountain and on steep [...]]]></description>
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<p>		  			  		  <div id="caption_7366" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 260px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Salewa-Pro-Guide_35138.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Salewa-Pro-Guide-250_35136.jpg" height="219"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Salewa Pro Guide</p></div>
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<p><b>EDITORS&#8217; CHOICE<br />  Salewa Pro Guide   <br />$499; <a href="http://www.salewa.us">salewa.us</a></b></p>
<p>When Salewa revealed stiff-soled climbing boots that loosen up for walking with a simple adjustment, people slapped their   heads and said, “Why didn’t I think of that?” But would they really work? Our main tester, a Rainier guide, used these boots   on his home mountain and on steep ice in Montana, and he loved them. “The boots continue to impress with the walk/climb   mode adjustment,” he reported. “I wear them on any approach in   walk mode, switch over to climbing for the steep ice, and then step   blissfully back into walking comfort for the hike out.” And there’s   more going for these boots: Testers lauded their weatherproofing,   support with a heavy pack, and aggressive tread, as well as their   performance on steep ice. “I am in love with these boots for ice   climbing! They are sensitive, warm, and have a good platform for   front-pointing,” one tester said. Downsides? One user felt the lacing   cam-locks down near the toe were unnecessary, and the slim   toe made the boots hard to fit with some automatic crampons. And   after his time in Montana, our guide tester said they weren’t warm   enough for belaying in sub-zero temperatures. But overall, these   boots delivered exactly what they promised. They’re also available   in a Pro Gaiter model for about $100 more; both the Pro Guide and Pro Gaiter come in “performance” and insulated versions.</p>
<p><i>Category: Alpine</i></p>
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<p>			  			  		  <div id="caption_7367" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 385px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Petzl-Lynx-Crampon_35144.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Petzl-Lynx-Crampon-375_35142.jpg" height="251"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Petzl Lynx</p></div>
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<p><b>EDITORS&#8217; CHOICE<br />  Petzl Lynx   <br />$245; <a href="http://www.petzl.com" target="_blank">petzl.com</a></b></p>
<p>There’s a conundrum with crampons: If you   climb both steep ice and traditional mountaineering   routes, you’re very likely to own both   full-welted ice boots and much lighter alpine   boots, which must be used with automatic   crampons that have a cuff to grip the toe. You   could use automatic crampons for both boots,   but many ice climbers prefer the security of a   toe bail. Until now, you had to buy two pairs of   crampons. But the Lynx comes with a simple   kit to switch from automatic to step-in modes,   so one crampon works on both types of boots.   The switch takes pliers and about 10 minutes   of fiddling, and then these crampons securely   latched onto numerous boots we tested in both   modes. And best of all: This is not a dumbeddown,   one-size-fits-all crampon. It performed   beautifully on ice, névé, and mixed ground. You   can adjust the length of the front points in   both dual or monopoint modes, or offset them,   short and long. These crampons aren’t cheap,   but given their versatility, performance, and included anti-balling plates, they’re a steal.</p>
<p><i>Category: Alpine</i></p>
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<p>			  			  		  <div id="caption_7368" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 260px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Sportiva-Batura-GG_35150.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Sportiva-Batura-250_35148.jpg" height="266"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX</p></div>
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<p><b>La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX   <br />$650; <a href="http://www.sportiva.com" target="_blank">sportiva.com</a></b></p>
<p>Recent years have seen an arms race between major footwear manufacturers for lighter   and warmer technical mountain boots. With the revamped Batura 2.0, La Sportiva has   jockeyed for the top spot yet again. This integrated boot-gaiter system retains the technical   prowess of a light single boot, while tapping into some of the warmth you’d experience   with a double boot. The Batura 2.0 maintains the trim weight of its predecessor (about 4   lbs. a pair) while adding two Gore-Tex layers (one inside the full gaiter, and an insulating   layer inside the boot) to keep your feet toasty and dry. It also gains lightweight stiffness   for steep terrain with a carbon insole under the foot. Extras include an upgraded zipper on   the gaiter and a Velcro flap for protection. The Batura 2.0 performed exceedingly well on   steep terrain, front-pointing effortlessly on steep climbs in Vail, Colorado, and Cody, Wyoming.   And, our tester said, “Though it’s no fruit boot, I felt as comfortable on steep mixed   terrain as you could expect in a mountain boot.” This is a warm, stiff boot with vertical   ground in mind, so it’s not the ideal choice for pounding out mile after mile on the trail.   However, if exacting alpine terrain in the cold is on the menu, you’d be remiss not to give the Batura 2.0 GTX a hard look.</p>
<p><i>Category: Alpine</i></p>
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<p><!-- End: Ad Container --><br clear="all">		  			  		  <div id="caption_7369" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/BD-Stinger-GG_35156.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/BD-Stinger-GG-300_35154.jpg" height="274"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Black Diamond Stinger</p></div>
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<p><b>Black Diamond Stinger   <br />$200; <a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com" target="_blank">blackdiamondequipment.com</a></b></p>
<p>There are plenty of companies offering dual/   mono–configurable crampons with replaceable   front points, and at least one that offers   a dedicated monopoint product. The Stinger is   the first monopoint-only set with replaceable   front points. This stainless-steel crampon has a   narrow, asymmetric profile to better fit modern   boots and save weight—it comes out of the box   at 2 lbs., 1 oz, or about 6.5 ounces below BD’s   dual-configuration Cyborg crampon. In tests in   Colorado and Wyoming, the Stingers delivered   on everything from frozen waterfalls like Cody’s   <i>High Over Boulder</i> (WI4) to dry-tooling routes   like Vail’s super-steep <i>Amphibian</i> (M8). Oh, and   those lime green anti-balling plates underfoot will really stand out in your hero shots.</p>
<p><i>Category: Alpine</i></p>
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<p>			  			  		  <div id="caption_7370" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Kahtoola-Microspikes-GG_35162.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Kahtoola-Microspikes-GG-300_35160.jpg" height="270"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Kahtoola Microspikes</p></div>
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<p><b>Kahtoola Microspikes   <br />$60; <a href="http://www.kahtoola.com" target="_blank">kahtoola.com</a></b></p>
<p>Motivation for outdoor bouldering sometimes takes a dip in the colder months, and trekking   up steep, snow-packed approaches that feel like Olympic luge courses doesn’t help. Don’t stop   climbing—get traction. “I have tried several of the slip-on traction systems, and the Kahtoola Microspikes   are a clear winner in my book,” said our tester. The shoe harness is made from beefy   rubber, which stays put even when slogging up steep trails, and with four sizes available, everyone   from little ladies to big-footed dudes   will find a good fit. And the traction system   is all chain and metal spikes, which makes   the Kahtoolas more durable and more aggressive   than the cheaper YakTrax. “Though   I worried the spikes would telegraph through   my lightweight approach shoes, these fears   were unfounded,” a tester said. “Even on   long approaches with close to 2,000 feet   of elevation gain, I found the Microspikes to   be eminently comfortable, and I can’t recall   slipping even once.” And even if these minicrampons   only get you outside for just a few days, they’ll be cheaper than gym climbing.</p>
<p><i>Category: Alpine/Bouldering/Sport/Trad</i></p>
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