Arc’teryx Vapor,
$100, 12 ounces
Overall grade: B+
Summary: Once the standard in lighweight harnesses, the Vapor needs to be updated, especially in light of its $100 price tag. This rig was certainly one of the most comfortable in the test, thanks to its thermal-molded, velvety micro-fleeced-lined swami and leg loops. But the swami could have a more anatomic cut and the tubing gear loops are woefully outdated. The Vapor does sport a full-strength haul loop, which gives the harness crossover versatility for trad and multi-pitch climbing. Folks of even average-sized legs should take note: This rig’s leg loops are very small in proportion to the waist. Fortunately, Arc’teryx does offer a second size of leg loops, though you may have to do some hunting to find a shop that stocks them.
Arc’teryx: (604) 451-7755, www.arcteryx.com

The Test Results

Arc’teryx Vapor
BlueWater Icon
C.A.M.P. Geko
Edelweiss Alpha
Mammut Apollo
Misty Mountain Arête
Ocun Mescal
Petzl Sama
Singing Rock Rhythm
Trango Fly
Wild Country Helix Ziplock