Petzl Ergo, $270,
1 pound, 8 ounces
Overall grade: A
The Petzl Ergo was one of the first commercial leashless tools to hit the market. It’s also the best on the market right now, taking top honors for our test in both ice climbing and dry tooling. On ice, the Ergo matches swings with the best leashed tools on the market and sticks equally well. On rock, the tool shift as you moved from grip to grip was perceptible, but minimal. Hooking, torquing, stein pulling — all handled with aplomb. In a sign of how popular this tool was, it routinely disappeared from the office gear stash last winter and I’d have to resort to shaking down certain usual suspects in order to get it returned.
Our complaints were few and not outstanding. The Ergo felt a touch short compared to some tools, especially the Phreak, but we rarely felt like reach was an issue. Also, the clip-in point on the tool’s head could be larger to accommodate fuss-free clipping.
Petzl: (877) 807-3805, www.petzl.com

Test Results:
Austri Alpin Phreak
Black Diamond Fusion
Grivel Racing Wing
Petzl Ergo
Simond Coyote
Trango Mantis